Sunday, 12 April 2026

From My Travels in India with Tavayogi Thangarasan Adigal

The Actual Journey Begins 

23rd Sept 2005 

“Only now our actual journey begins”, said Tavayogi with a big, wide grin on his face and a twinkle in his eyes, as we left on the second leg of our tour. We were headed for Agasthiyampalli in Vedharanyam, Pothigai, Courtallam, and Palani as instructed in my Nadi. He was just as excited as I was. 

We reached Trichy at 2.00 pm, where we had lunch. Then we went over to the hotel where my brother was staying. Tavayogi excused himself to visit his friend in Trichy, while my brother and I went to a book fair. 

Tavayogi returned shortly to the hotel. Subarao, Mano, and others who accompanied my brother for a seminar in India met Tavayogi and exchanged views. Tavayogi and I wanted to find accommodation in the same hotel, but we were told all rooms were taken up. On the way to the adjacent hotel, the local organizer of the seminar insisted that he would make arrangements for all of us to stay in the same hotel. 

Sage Agathiyar Welcomes Us At Agastiyampalli

24th Sept 2005

At 6 am, Tavayogi and I left Trichy for Vedharanyam. We stopped over at Tanjore at 7.30 am for breakfast. We saw the salt lakes where Mohandas K Gandhi had carried out his famous Salt March. We also saw the places where the tsunami wave had hit on 26th December 2004. 

We reached Agastiyampalli, Vedharanyam at 10.30 am. A temple priest who was sitting with two people at the entrance of the temple, on seeing us alight from the car, came forward to usher us into the temple grounds. He took us straight to Sage Agathiyar’s shrine. This shrine was on the left of the entrance and was facing the main temple of Lord Siva. He lit a camphor and showed the flame. Tavayogi and I sat on the floor. Tavayogi started singing a hymn. The priests interrupted him, asking us to go around the temple grounds and then to the main temple first. He insisted we pray at Lord Siva’s shrine first, as he told us that he was going away to another temple to conduct prayers. He gave instructions on how to go around the temple grounds. Tavayogi told me, "Let's oblige him". 

Tavayogi and I came around the temple grounds as the priests had instructed. We stepped into Lord Siva’s shrine, where the priest was waiting for us. He showed the flame. He explained that this was the very temple where Sage Agathiyar pressed his thumb into the ground to balance the earth that had tilted due to the Devas, Gods, and Goddesses converging in the Himalayas for Lord Siva-Goddess Parvathy’s wedding. 

After praying at Lord Siva’s shrine, we came back to Sage Agathiyar’s shrine. Tavayogi picked up singing the hymns from where he had left off. I continued with the Potri songs as usual. As I started reciting the ‘Pranavam’-‘AUM’ at Sage Agathiyar’s shrine, I could hear and feel the ‘Pranavam’ reverberate and bounce off the granite walls. I felt a cool breeze sweep over me even as I was sweating away at the shrine. As I uttered the last line of the 'Potri' song, ‘OM MAA SIDDHARGALE POTRI,’ I broke down in tears. I cried and cried. I asked Sage Agathiyar to open his eyes and see me. He did not respond. I shut my eyes as I wept. I opened my eyes after some time. Tavayogi, who was earlier seated opposite me, was not there anymore. I turned towards the entrance. He had moved to the open air and was standing there. 

Sage Agathiyar Opens His Eyes. 

As I got up, he ushered me to his side and told me that Sage Agathiyar had opened his eyes twice. “There is the aroma of sandalwood in the air, too,” he added. He asked that I stand at the same spot he had stood. “Concentrate on looking at the Sage's eyes”, he said. I peered at the granite statue of Sage Agathiyar, but I could hardly make out his face, much less see him open and close his eyes. The shrine was dark. I could sense Tavayogi’s disappointment that I could not see the Sage open his eyes. This I knew from the tone of his voice when he consoled me, “Never mind, son. Let's snap some photographs, shall we?” 

I entered Sage Agathiyar’s shrine again and was about to sit when Tavayogi motioned me to sit with Sage Agathiyar in the inner sanctum sanctorium, saying, “Go in and sit at Sage Agathiyar’s feet at the inner sanctum. He is our father. Who dares object?” That’s when Tavayogi throws his shawl over to me, asking me to lay it on the floor to sit on, as the floor had oil spills. As I laid his shawl and sat, I glanced at Sage Agathiyar’s face, and what do I see? The sage is observing me with an eye open. 

I looked hard, not believing. Only a moment ago, I had seen him with both eyes shut. The eyes were engraved into the granite, and I was sure they were engraved shut as I entered his shrine this morning. I was overcome with joy seeing Sage Agathiyar look at me, and I called out to Tavayogi, “Swami…” Even before I could complete my sentence, Tavayogi understood and told me, “Right! he has seen you, has he, come!, They will show themselves to you only for a moment.” Even as I came out from his shrine, the sage was looking at me with one eye shut, grinning away. We left Agastiyampalli at 11.15 am. Tavayogi tells me it has been ten years since he came to Agastiyampalli. 

In the Nadi prediction, Sage Agathiyar had promised that he would look at me when I came here. I was convinced the vision I had was possible only with the help that I got from my guru, Tavayogi Thangarasan Adigal. Only after he had thrown his shawl over to me to sit on did this miracle take place.

Back at Breehadeshwarar’s Temple and Sage Karuvurar’s Shrine

We had lunch at Tanjore and proceeded to the Breehadeshwarar Temple at 3 pm. As the temples in India are closed from 1 pm to 4 pm, Tavayogi took the opportunity to take a nap in front of the huge Nandi at the temple grounds, while I went around to snap some photos of the temple. I walked up the flight of steps to Lord Dhashina Murthi’s shrine. Then I walked to the back of the temple grounds where Sage Karuvurar’s shrine was located. The caretaker who was cleaning the oil lamps got up, called me in, lit the camphor, showed the flame, and gave me the sacred ash. I came back to the spot where Tavayogi was napping. He invited me to share the shawl that he had spread on the ground to lie down. At 4 pm, when the temple doors were opened to the public, Tavayogi went straight to Sage Karuvurar’s shrine, and the same man who attended to me earlier attended to Tavayogi too. Tavayogi sat at the shrine in meditation. I followed suit. Some pilgrims who had taken shelter away from the scorching sun at Sage Karuvurar’s shrine were conversing loudly. The caretaker drove them away, saying people were meditating, referring to us, creating a peaceful environment for us to meditate. As we came around the temple complex, Tavayogi must have sensed my yearning to see Lord Siva, for he told me to go ahead while he stood in the shade of the temple structure. I rushed up the flight of stairs to the inner sanctum of the temple, where the largest Sivalingam was housed. I joined Tavayogi shortly, and we left the temple complex. 

Saraswathy Mahal 

Tavayogi suggested we visit the Saraswathy Mahal, hoping to show me some old scripts and collections of King Sarobhoji. It was 5 pm as we got into the car and rushed to the museum before it closed for the day. Tavayogi purchased a couple of tickets, and we entered the museum. The palace of King Sarobhoji was now converted into a museum that houses his vast collection of English books, portraits, and old writings. Tavayogi was saddened that most of the writings that were kept here earlier were no longer to be seen. We returned to Trichy. Tavayogi still insisted on sleeping on the floor, although he relented to accept a blanket to be spread on the cold floor and a pillow under his head.

Pothigai And Courtallam

25 Sept 2005

My brother checked out of the hotel. His visit to India to participate in and cover a seminar had ended, and he had extended his visit to follow us. Tavayogi, my brother, and I left for Pothigai Hills at 6 am. We had breakfast in Tanjore and lunch on arrival at Papanasam. Here was the famous Agathiyar Falls. This place was packed with holidaymakers, as it was a Sunday. Tavayogi and I washed our clothes in the stream and laid them out to dry on the rocks. We took a bath under the falls, dried ourselves, and started our climb up a long flight of stairs to a lake known as the Kalyana Theertam. On the way, we passed a house built into the cliffs where a lady saint, Krishnaveni Ammal, was staying. I was told she has been staying in solitude since coming up to this spot following a Siddha when she was barely thirteen years of age. She never went back. Tavayogi stopped to enquire if she was around, only to be told that she was having her afternoon nap. Tavayogi told us we could try our luck on our way down. Further up, perched on a cliff, was a Siva temple. There was a shrine for Sage Agathiyar too. Tavayogi meditated at this spot. Tavayogi tells us this was the spot where Sage Agathiyar himself had meditated and attained Mukti. I was told this was also the spot where the Siddhas come down in the form of light after 11.00 pm daily. Impressed by the talk that one could see the Siddhas in light form in this spot, I requested Tavayogi that we stay overnight to watch them, but Tavayogi preferred to stay in the caves of Courtallam. 

As we started on our way down and approached Krishnaveni Amma’s ashram, the ashram door was still closed. Tavayogi did not want to disturb her and lead us away from there. Then we stopped at a large temple dedicated to Sage Agathiyar, further down. Here, Sage Agathiyar was enshrined in the form of a granite statue sitting in a similar pose to that of Ayappa Swami in Kerala. Then we returned to Agathiyar Falls, where there is a large and old Sivan temple. It was closed. We waited for the temple to open at 4.00 pm. We then left for Courtallam. We had tea at Courtallam and later purchased a candle and torchlight as we were going to stay in Sage Agathiyar’s cave overnight. Tavayogi stops at one of the numerous houses lined up in this small town and enquires about the caretaker of the caves. We are told she was at the temple in the hills. Prem drops us at the famed Courtallam picnic spot. I picked up my bundle of laundry that was still wet. I took along my bag of fresh clothing and a blanket, and we rushed to the caves on foot, as it was almost nightfall. Strong winds blew again as we hiked up the hill behind the Courtallam Falls. It was a three-kilometer walk uphill to Sage Agathiyar’s cave. Eventually, the night set in. We trodded in the dark with Tavayogi leading the way with the aid of a torchlight. It was pitch dark as we reached the Shenbaga Devi Amman temple, which was in total darkness except for a light inside the Devi's shrine. Tavayogi calls out in the dark through the metal grills. I see some movement on the floor of the temple. Apparently, some folks were sleeping in the temple. He introduces himself, and they seem to know him. He asked them to open up Sage Agathiyar’s cave, which they readily obliged. A gentleman led the way while we followed. It was pitch dark, and I could not make out the surroundings, although I knew we were walking on the banks of a lake and could hear the roar of a waterfall nearby. The caretakers were three elderly women. Their brother, Supramaniam, who was from out of town, was the one who showed us to the cave. He unlocked the iron grills to the cave. He lit the hurricane lamp and tidied the place so that it was conducive to spending the night, and even prepared hot tea for us in the cave. The drink was a blessing in that cold weather. There were a few statues, including a statue of Sage Agathiyar, pictures, and the staff that Sage Agathiyar used. This staff is placed under one's arms to retain the flow of the breath through a particular nostril. Tavayogi told us that there were even Sage Agathiyar’s sandals earlier, but now missing. The caretaker lady drops in to check if all was conducive for our stay and night out in this cave. They then leave. We could hardly stand up in this cave. It was small, cozy, and warm in here.  I was told the adjacent compartment of the cave, which was empty except for an oil lamp burning, was where Sage Agathiyar had meditated. We entered this chamber and seated ourselves. Tavayogi was sad to notice that a portion of this cave had now become a store filled with pots and pans. Tavayogi was also saddened that the cave had now been named Avaiyaar’s cave when, in actuality, it was Sage Agathiyar’s cave. As usual, Tavayogi sang the hymns which I have now become familiar with, followed by me singing the Potri. Tavayogi then left us to continue with the prayers and retired for the day. I dried my clothes outside the cave and locked up the grilled door to the cave entrance before retiring for the day. We laid blankets on the ground and used our bags and clothing as a pillow. We were so exhausted that the moment we lay our heads on the ground, we had dozed off. I did wake up in the middle of the night, though, and saw rats scurrying away in the crevices and sides of the cave. I had a good night’s sleep and was refreshed the next day.

Roaming The Jungles Of Pothigai And Courtallam

26th Sept 2005 

I woke up early as usual and came out of the cave to realize that we were next to a huge waterfall and a lake. In the early morning sunlight, I could make out some movements in the surrounding jungles. I sat and watched the day begin. As the day dawned and there was more light, I noticed it was monkeys that had been perched on the cliffs and trees. Tavayogi woke up shortly after. Supramaniam and the caretaker lady turned up early to prepare tea for us. We took our bath at the falls under the watchful eyes of Tavayogi. He cautioned us to be careful, as the rocks were slippery, and asked that we hold on to the railings that had been put up. I washed and dried my clothes again! After drying my cloths I came up the steps to the cave. I was taken aback to see a sadhu squatting at the entrance to the cave and having tea. He resembled the photograph of Pundi Mahaan Aatru Swami, who was one of Supramania Swami's gurus. He had long, matted hair and was beaming a smile. He invited me in. I gestured "Vanakam" to him and sat down beside him. I had my tea. He remained quiet as Tavayogi talked with the caretakers. This sadhu then tells me he would be at the temple below and leaves the cave. It reminded me of Supramania Swami telling me just before we parted days ago that I shall meet a Siddha on these travels. 

Lord Dhaksanamurthy’s Cave

Tavayogi suggested we go over to Dhashina Murthi’s, and Saint Ramalingam’s, or Vallalar's cave. He asked me to get the blessings of the elderly woman and give a small contribution to her, which I did.

We came down the hill to the Shenbaga Devi Amman temple. I saw the sadhu again. He was at the temple just as he had promised. I told him I was going to the caves and asked if he would like to follow. He jumped down from his seat immediately and led the way to Lord Dhashina Murthi’s cave. He opened up the grilled gates to the cave entrance for us. He lit the oil lamp inside the cave. The sadhu, having lighted the place for us, went out and sat on a rock outside the cave. We entered the cave, which was large enough to allow us to stand. What a surprise I had. There were statues of Sage Agathiyar, his wife Lobamuthirai, and Sage Visvamitra in this cave. In the inner chamber was a statue of Lord Dhashina Murthi. We sat in meditation for a while.

Saint Ramalingam or Vallalar Cave

The sadhu closed the grilled gates to Lord Dhashina Murthi’s cave as we came out. Tavayogi then led us to the Saint Ramalingam or Vallalar cave. The sadhu followed us a distance but eventually turned onto another path. I caught up with him to thank him. He gave me a wink.

I turned to join Tavayogi and my brother, who were already some distance ahead. Tavayogi left us at a spot to check out the route to Vallalar’s cave. He reappeared from a different direction and led us away from the spot. The entrance to Vallalar’s cave was secured with metal grills, too. Tavayogi told me it was locked. I inspected the door and tried to unlatch it. Surprisingly, the latch gave way, and I could slide the grilled door aside quite easily. It was pitch dark inside. We had to light the candle. The outer chamber was large enough to stand around. Tavayogi and I crawled into the inner chamber, which was rather small. I grasped Tavayogi’s hand. Tears ran down my cheeks. I was grateful and appreciated Tavayogi for having guided me to these auspicious spots and places. I would not have seen and experienced this much if I had undertaken this journey alone. We closed the grill to the caves and headed back for Sage Agathiyar’s cave.

We prayed at the Shenbaga Devi Amman Temple on our way back. This temple was where Maha Avatar Babaji had sat for days in meditation. His guru, Sage Bhogar, had instructed him to go to the Pothigai hills to meet Sage Agathiyar. Babaji left Kadhirgamam in Ceylon for the Pothigai Hills. Babaji adamantly went into penance until Sage Agathiyar appeared in front of him.

We bid farewell to all the caretakers who had gathered at the temple. Tavayogi again insisted on carrying my bundle of damp cloths. We started down the mountain to the spot where Prem left us yesterday. Prem had been worried sick, having no idea about our whereabouts in the jungles of Courtallam. He had been calling Tavayogi on the cellphone, but there was no signal in the mountains. He was relieved to see me as he was answerable to his travel agency for my safety and well-being. We then continued on our journey to Palani.

Sage Agathiyar Opens His Eyes Again

Before we left Courtallam, Tavayogi took us to a Siva temple, Lord Kutralanathar, in town. At the Siva temple was a shrine for Sage Agathiyar. Tavayogi narrated an incident that took place here during his travels through India. He was at Sage Agathiyar’s shrine at the spot where we stood today. He could hear a melodious hymn. On tracing the source of that hymn, he chanced upon Somasundareswarar Swami, who was standing at a shrine of Lord Siva. Later, Tavayogi met Somasundareswara Swami often at Shenbaga Devi Amman temple. Sage Agathiyar’s cave and the surrounding caves were maintained by Somasundareswara Swami until his demise.

We sat at Sage Agathiyar’s shrine, and Tavayogi started singing hymns. Tavayogi broke down as he sang Saint Ramalingam’s ‘Indru varumoh naalaiku varumoh allathu mathendru varumoh’. That’s when I thought I saw Sage Agathiyar open and shut both his eyes. I got up to move closer, to get a better view, and to confirm what I had seen. True enough, there was Sage Agathiyar opening and closing both his eyes, which were human. Back at Agastiyampalli, the sculptured granite figure of the sage had both eyes sculptured closed. But as I left his shrine, his left eye was wide open, watching me. At Courtallam, the Sage's eyes were sculptured wide open. It was human eyes that were watching me. I stood still, amazed, my sight fixed on the sage's eyes. That’s when Tavayogi called out to us, saying, “You have seen, have you? Come on lets leave.”

It was nightfall when we checked in at a hotel in Palani. Tavayogi told us we shall climb Palani Hill first thing in the morning. He again insisted on sleeping on the floor.

Palani Amazes Me Again

This was the second time I was invited to Palani by Sage Agathiyar through the Nadi reading. At 5.00 in the morning, we started for the Palani temple. The streets were quiet. Shops were still closed. We walked from the hotel in town to the temple on the hill. We had to wait in line, as the temple was still closed. At 6.00 am, we were allowed to enter. We stood in front of Palani Andavar and offered our prayers. I still can’t recall what I saw here, just as I can’t recall the first time I was in this temple in 2003. We went down some steps to the open and crossed over to another temple structure, which housed Sage Bhogar’s shrine. Palani had puzzled me earlier in 2003. I wanted some answers then. Now it was clear to me. This was definitely not the route I took to Sage Bhogar’s shrine in 2003. In my earlier visit, I walked along a passage from Palani Andavar’s shrine to Sage Bhogar’s shrine. There was no necessity to go into the open air. The shrine walls were now beautifully painted with murals depicting episodes from Bhogar’s life in color. In 2003, there were no paintings on the wall.

Tavayogi sat along the corridor outside Sage Bhogar's shrine in meditation. I wept in silence. As I opened my eyes. When he came out of meditation, we entered Sage Bhogar’s shrine. There were four temple priests when we stepped into the chamber. One of them showed the flame in front of the Maragatha Lingam and another figurine of Goddess Bhuvaneswari that Sage Bhogar had worshipped, both placed on a raised dais. The priests then pointed out the opening where Sage Bhogar had entered and is still believed to be. They narrated the history of the temple to Tavayogi and my brother. I cried again here. After gaining control of myself, I moved to a spot in the room to sit for a while as the three priests continued filling in Tavayogi on the temple's history. The fourth priest, who was very much younger than the rests was standing in attendance observing me and the others, not uttering a word.

As we came out of this chamber, these young priest intercepted us in the corridor away from the others. He passed a tumbler that he was holding to Tavayogi, who was right in front, saying, Abhisega Paal. I told myself, “My God, it was happening again. I am being given the Abhisega Paal again.” I was given a tumbler of milk on my visit here in 2003. Today I was receiving it again. Tavayogi drank a portion and passed the tumbler to my brother, who was behind him. My brother drank a portion and, in turn, passed the tumbler to me. I emptied the tumbler and gratefully handed it over to the priest, who looked pleased. Surprisingly, no one questioned him, nor did he say anything further.

As we came down the steps into the open again, Tavayogi stopped and turned back to look at me, something that he never did in all the time we walked on this travel with him leading the way. He questioned me, “What is it, my son?” I went up to him and placed my head on his chest. Tears welled in my eyes. He had this twinkle in his eyes and gave me a broad smile. I remained silent as we walked around the temple grounds. We left the temple premises. Later, we checked out of the hotel.

Marudamalai And Pampatti Sidhar’s Cave

On the way back to Kallar, Tavayogi took us to the Marudamalai Murugan temple, where Pampatti Siddha had meditated at an adjacent cave. We had to leave the car behind at the base of the hill because renovation works were being done in and around the hill temple. We hopped onto a bus that took us to the top of the hill. This was my first ride on a bus in India. We stood all the way to the top as the bus was packed. We had a quick darshan of Lord Murugan. The temple priest brought two garlands of flowers and placed them around Tavayogi and my brother. Tavayogi removed his garland and placed it around my neck. We went down a flight of steps to the cave of Pampatti Siddha. Here, the temple priest explained to us about Pampatti Sidha and his penance at this spot. We sat for a while. Tavayogi meditated. Some of the devotees and the tourists came over to Tavayogi for the sacred ash. This was the first time I saw the Indian public approach Tavayogi for his blessings in public. We took the bus back down the hill.

Back To Kallar

As I was coming to the end of my tour, I realized I needed something more than the sights and sounds that were shown to me. I pondered a lot on the way back to Kallar about this fabulous tour of religious spots and places. I was extremely blessed to have Tavayogi escort and show me around. A lot of miracles had taken place since I was here in India on my second trip, just as Sage Agathiyar had promised me in the Nadi reading. Yes, it was fine for me to return to Malaysia and tell my family and friends that Yogi Ramsuratkumar had joined Supramania Swami and me in chanting his name; that Sage Agathiyar had opened his eyes to see me, first one eye at Agastiyampalli, then later both eyes at Courtallam; I cherished all that I had seen and heard on this pilgrimage. I could talk about them for some time, but eventually talk would have to end too. What's next after I reach the shores of Malaysia? Do I go back to my routine life?

This journey should not be a mere tour of pilgrimage spots. I needed something that I could take back with me besides these memories. So I told Tavayogi, as we had tea, on our way back to Kallar, I did not want this journey of mine to end just like any tour of India. I wanted something more out of this journey. Something that could bring me advancement in my spiritual path. He looked at me for a moment and then asked if I had been chanting the mantra that was given to me by him at the Sri Agathiyar Gnana Peedham back in Malaysia, some months ago. I told him that I had received that mantra of Sage Agathiyar way back in November of 2004, and I have been chanting it since then. Tavayogi asks me from whom I received it. I mentioned I got it from Astrologer Dr. Krishnan. Tavayogi tells me briefly about other practices and mantras that need to be undertaken and mentions some of them.

Just before my brother and I left for Tiruvannamalai to bid farewell to Supramania Swami before returning to Malaysia, Tavayogi called me in and gave me my third initiation and a mantra to go along with it.  I was glad that I had received another practice just as I had asked of him.