I just had a chat with Vijayalakshmi Ravichandran and complemented her on her travels to Kashi recently and the other temples in India earlier. I requested if I could post her travel diary on agathiyarvanam and she consented.
Here is her travel log (Edited for misspell words and punctuation only)
February 13 near Chennai, India
This year Maha Shivaratri falls on Guru vaar and also Pradosham also falls on same day. Heard a young vedic scholar talking to the priest at Ramanashram during my last visit. He was saying how rare this event is going to be. And off I am to the very heart of Shiva Kashi!!!!!!!! for Maha Shivaratri. Will go to the cremation grounds on the ghats for meditation and chanting.
February 16 near Ballarpur, India
Sitting inside the train at Balaharsa Maharastra having poories for breakfast.
February 20
Arrived in Kashi just 2 days back. Have already been to Kashi Viswanathar temple twice and had the best darshan of my life no pushing or pulling. Matha Annapoorni provided me with meals on day of arrival.
Met Visalakshi Matha, Varahi Devi who is simply too beautiful to be described. The temple is just awesome. Mata Varahi devi is living 1 floor below and we can only view her from two small gaps specially made out on floor and see her majestic form below and Her two large feet. A lovely temple quaint little one but fully charged with intense energy. I recite Durga Sapta sloki there.
I visited the Manikarnika Ghats and befriended a purohit who kindly guided me to so many temples deep inside and also was able to participate in the evening aarthi of a lovely Shiva mandir that belongs to a mutt. This Shiva is sitting 3 floors below and viewing can be done from the top like looking into a well.
I have been walking up and down the ghats and enjoying every moment of it. Truly a wonderful amazing experience. Have been meeting so many wonderful souls, every one here is so pleasant and kind.
Have also been relishing so many nice local sweets. freshly made Rabri, Jilebis etc. Eating meeta pan from a 140 year old paan shop.
More of my experiences when I am back in Chennai.
This morning I participated in a Shiva puja ritual conducted by a swami hailing from Coimbatore. Sat through the whole puja on the ghats. He was so happy that I came too.
I also met 1 baba on the day of my arrival who had a cobra inside a box. He showed it to me and I just gave him 10 rs. Then as I was leaving he called me back took out a 2 mukhi rudhrakshak and gave it to me.
Have to go back to Manikarnika Ghat. This evening at 4pm I will visit Pancha ganga Ghat where Trilanga Swami's samadhi is for meditation being Guru vaar. Trilanga swami is supposed to have bound a huge shiv ling around His waist and swam across the Ganga river everyday. Such was His greatness.
Bye for now. Much much love and definitely Will keep all of you in mind here at Kashi.
February 22
At 12 pm a few minutes ago, I performed a small tirth thngy on the Ganges in the Manikarnika Ghat through a tirth purohit. All these guys here are only forever on tobacco or on bhang. So they are always on a high. I too must try a little of the bhang which incidentally is being sold in a Govt. authorized shop and is totally legal here in Varanasi. Someone told me eating just a small quantity will keep you high for two days. he he hehe. Guess I don't do it when I am alone in a strange city. Not advisable.
It's also started raining here in Varanasi and weather is chilly wet and cold. Though two days earlier it was so hot. This place is very interesting with its dirty by lanes that can make you go in a tizzy and have you loose your way quite easily, but you can always ask your way around come back to Viswanath Gully and then make your way to the ghats and back to where ever you stay.
Walking on the ghats is the best experience one can have in their lives. So many different types of people all looking and searching for different things in their lives. The white people are here out f or curiosity and clicking away pics on their expensive cameras. Some are here for spirituality while some are here for the hash.
The Varahhi Matha is very very interesting. Her Feet when seen through the hole on the first floor are large and so beautiful. She is truly powerful goddess and so very beautiful too. One must see her in person to take in her beauty and her power.
Have to sign off now guys. Am curious as to what other experiences await me in the coming days. Will surely keep you all posted.This way you can all come with me on this great trip.
February 26
This great sacred city of Kashi is slowly becoming a mini .......... There are only people from ....... who are seen every where jabbering away, pushing pulling at the Kashi Viswanath Mandir, Anna Poorna mandir and Visalakshi mandir. Though I should be in an elevated state of conscious seeing only Lord Shiva and Matha Parvathi in one and all, my ego and mind just always brings me back to this harsh reality. They are spitting in the River Ganga washing their slippers etc while others are piously taking a dip and offering prayers.Last night we went for the Saptha rishis puja at Viswanath mandir and there too they were just pushing and pulling and wouldn't allow others to see anything. Thank God Lord Shiva was immensely kind that he offered me a vantage point to be able to watch the whole puja easily.
Then came the biggest blow. After the puja the sapta rishis came out and started offering prasad and thith and all for money and they kept demanding more and more. If 1 gives 500 rs you get special darshan. Let Lord Shiva save Kashi. He couldn't save Himself from the .... and now he rests peacefully inside the well just being a witness to all this tamasha. What He teaches me from this experience is to just be a witness and not react to anything or even judge all these people.
Tomorrow is the great day when this whole city will be become the most vibrant hub of SHIVA CONSCIOUSNESS and there will be 3 Baraats of Lord Shiva with Bhoot ganas accompanying Him for His celestial wedding with Matha Parvathy. A sight to behold will definitely snap many pics and update for you all to see. Also my hosts have most kindly made arrangements for me to have VIP darshan of Lord Visvanath and also to partake some Thandai laced with bhang. we are going to have that out of body experience. Ok folks that's it for now. — feeling blessed.
February 26
HAR HAR MAHADE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! jay shambho!!!!!!!!! om nama shivaya!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CELEBRATIONS HAVE ALREADY STARED HERE FOR THE CELESTIAL WEDDING OF OUR VERY OWN DARLI*NG LORD SHAMBO THE ONE AND ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU LORD FOR YOUR KIND MERCY OF WISHING THIS SOUL TO BE IN YOUR MOST FAVORITE PLACE ON THIS EARTH.
March 4 near Satna, India
Returning back to the hustle and bustle of Chennai city life leaving behind the wonderful soulful experience of beautiful Varanasi and Viswanath Ganga Matha and the ghats. Taking back unforgettable experiences and memories. Hope to be back soon — feeling happy.
(On returning back to Chennai she reminiscence all the beautiful memories she had of her spiritual journey.)
Shivji's Baarath :) So much fun and enjoyment.
This is a first part of the video of Shivji's Baarath that takes place at 3 places in Kashi on Maha Shivratri day.This one is from Til Pandeshwer temple. Til Pandeshwar has a very very huge shivling that grows in size of Til every year during Shankanthi. So he is still growing growing growing!!!!
Most of the shivlings and other murthis of mathas are all swamyambhu and nobody can say how long they have been there and most are all come down through generations all in houses. One house I just entered in one of the gulleys had a temple right inside and the family just lived around the temple and slept there too. The lady was kind enough to allow me inside and pour Ganga water over Mahadev too.
There's a small shop selling all paan stuff Gupta's Zardar on Visvanath gulley and if you just manage to peek behind the wooden doors there are 5 shivlings on the floor. I was taken by surprise and they do puja everyday by pouring Ganga water sourced by their own hands and bhel patra and sweets.
I also had the grace of visiting The first King of Kashi Divodasi and see Visvanathjis shivling and his shivling.There's Aathi annapoorni, Aathi Visalakshi and Aathi Durga with 10 hands each hidden behind all the alankarams. The priest told me it's been in their family for ages and even most people of Kashi don't know about it and it's story. He kept me for more than half hour telling me all the stories in Hindi too and I could just manage to understand a little bit here and there as my Hindi is really really bad.That's when I decided learning to speak Hindi is next on my to do list. Also Sanskrit.
I also frequented a huge Bala Hanuman temple who lovingly looks at His mother Anjali Matha when viewed from one angle and then when you see through a grilled window from the side he looks menacingly at Srilanka and Ravana. This the priest there who became a good friend told me. he also told me Matha you are so devoted and surely soon you will become a Kashi vaasi. There is a water body or kund below this huge Bala Hanuman. If you walk up the steps of Lalitha ghat you can easily go to these temples after visiting Adi Varahi Matha who is open only from 4.30am till 9.30am. Must visit for one and all. Fall at Charan and that's only possible from top through grilled openings on the floor.
(This is the second part of the video of Shivji's Baarath at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmDZRp7DFUQ#t=13)
— at Kashi Kedar ghat.
Kashi!!!!!! The ghat which leads upto the Ashram where I was put up. It's close to the Manasarover ghat. Had been walking up and down these steep steps at least twice everyday of my stay at Kashi. Lord Kala Bhairavar and Lord Visvanath were so gracious to allow me to stay for over 15 days in this beautiful city.
(Referring to the following pics) The first pic is of a monkey that had died and it gets a decent burial with all the fanfare of the dolak and dancing by the boys.
The next pic is a body being consigned to flames at Harischandra ghat which is about 2 ghats away from Manasarover ghat. The time is around 830pm was sitting there watching the body burn.
The rest of the 3 pics was taken at Manikarnika ghat where bodies were being brought continuously for burning. This is a sight to behold. No fear or any feelings of revolt at all.
Here are pics of some of the foods of Varanasi that I thoroughly enjoyed.The first pic is of puris and chole that were served on the steps of the ghats in the early mornings and it became my breakfast. Just 10 rs only but extremely tasty and hot.
The 2nd pic is Banana lassi that I had at the Blue lassi shop a famous landmark in one of the gulleys close to Viswanath gulley that serves some delicious lassis freshly made. The strawberry lassi looked much better though.
The final pic is a 140 year old paan shop and it's owner who makes paan for one and all on Visvanath Gulley. Here he is seen making a lovely sweet paan for me costs 15 Rs. Too good. Also you get delicious Rabri that's made fresh every afternoon just 4 shops away from this paan shop and is ready only by 4pm everyday. mornings you can get delicious lassi after 11 am for 20Rs at the same shop.Rabri costs 30Rs and is served in a mudpot. they also have takeaways.
(Referring to the following pics) The view from the ghats in the early morning. It's only just after 7am that Surya Dev decides to make His presence felt over Ganga Maa and bring some warmth. It was utterly cold at nights and I was shivering even with 2 jackets and thermal wear. Also the climate kept changing ever so often that it became very hot one day and then the rains came and turned the whole city into slush. But everyone didn't really care as they made their ways through the slushy gulleys filled with human spit, urine, animal dung and what not. It's lovely lesson not to distinguish between the Ganga and the gulleys. it's the same no differentiation. Everything is a play of the mind.
It did rain for 3 days in a row during Shivaratri and nobody ventured out much during the Maha Shivaratri night as water was flowing like river in all the roads. Some brave ones did manage to make it to the various temples and Visvanath temple itself was quite deserted that night save for the monkey residents.
The 3rd pic is of a rouge buffalo that refused to listen to its master an old man who brings his herd of buffaloes for their daily bath each noon.
The 4th pic gives you a glimpse of the moon as she retires for the day and Surya making His presence felt.
A foreigner engrossed in painting what's happening on the ghats.
The next pic is of a sanyasi from coimbatore who is a staunch Shiva Bakth who has come with his aged mother. He comes every morning at 5.30am for his daily puja. I was able to help him one Thursday and felt blessed as doing service to Shiva bakths is very important and is like doing service to the lord Himself. His puja is so very elaborate and he brings along his tiny shivling all decked up in silk in a small lovely box and tiny silver vessels for puja. It was a treat to watch him perform his puja with all mudras and mantras singing hymns in praise of Lord Shiva loudly. He was also so happy that I was there that day. Of course I kept bumping into him in many places especially Visvanath gulley so many times.
Snake Charmers sitting on the ghats calling out to passersby asking them to have blessings of Bholenath in cobra form. Just a ploy for getting some money. Poor guys earning money using those poor cobras that actually want some sleep and not be disturbed by the guy's playing his instrument. The cobra actually bit him when I asked if it had fangs. I parted with 200 rs that day but felt happy they were poor people and required to eat too. Then kept seeing them so often as I walked up and down the ghats that the moment they see me the shout Maathaji with a big smile. You are still here they say with all happiness overflowing from their hearts.
The 4th pic is of my baba friend who can't actually speak whom I met on 1st day who gave me a 2 faced rudhrakshk for just 10 rs. Hope its real I asked him and he said in his muted voice yes yes asli hai! he allowed me to hold his tiny boa constrictor saying she will not bite. Then another day as I walked the gulley I saw him in one corner and he said Maaji come here and see I have mother and child cobras and please give me 10 rs for food which I readily gave and he put the mother cobra around my neck. Sorry forgot to click a pic of that scene.This was real fun for me.
(Referring to the following pics) These are pics of my animal friends living on the ghats at Kashi. The monkey friends lived just above the parapet walls of the ashram I stayed and came to visit me every morning noon and night for their food. They nicely accepted food from my hands and I had to even peel the skins of oranges as the little one couldn't eat them as they were. Mother and other siblings enjoyed all the oranges, bananas, biscuits nuts etc. That I gave them and they ensured to knock on my window everyday. Felt sad when I had to vacate as they would have come to my window hoping for food the next day.
Nandi was happily sitting at Rajendra Prasad ghat wearing a mala and just being. Forgot to mention that I witnessed something very interesting in monkey behavior while feeding them. Mother would not allow her baby to eat and she would grab everything from my hand first. So I ensured that I gave her enough to fill both her hands and keep her distracted and then fed the little one which was making squeaking noises. Also mother would snatch from poor baby's hand and put in her mouth and little one would look at her with fear in it's eyes.
The dogs and puppies are enjoying biscuits.There are en number of dogs on the streets of Kashi but not one harms you.
Our goat friend came running when I was feeding the dogs and wanted her share of biscuits. I think she's pregnant.
(Referring to the following pics) The first 2 pics are of Manikarnika ghat and the temple that's almost going down into the Ganga. Was told Ma Ganga does a circle around Visvanathji as a mark of her respect and devotion. Also got to see the ancient Aadi shivling deep below 3 floors and was told earlier Ganga used to flow there.
The last 3 pics are of the pancha Ganga ghat steps that will take you to Trilanga Swami's samadhi mandir. There's such a huge shivling there which Swami himself has sanctified and also a big srichakra. Was told Swami used to tie a huge shivling around his waist and swim across the Ganga and back everyday. The Ganga has of course shrank in width now but she must have been really big a few centuries ago. These steps are very steep and will make you pant for breath. Trilanga Swami was put into jail by the British police and after some time they found him walking on the roof and that's when the British realized that he was a great yogi.
This pic is very interesting (Referring to the following pic). Just married couples after the ceremony go to the Dasasamedha ghat for some Ganga ceremony. That lady whom I think is the bride's mother is doing full namaskar all the way to the ghat as gratitude and the bride and groom touched her feet each time after her shasthang namasker. Such reverence they have for their elders. Hats off tho these people.
My nearly 20day long Kashi yatra has come to an end and I am back home safely not in great health condition but extremely happy and satisfied with all the wonderful experiences and love that the people of Kashi offered me.
First my heartfelt gratitude to Lord Visvanath, Kala Bhairavar, Visalakshi Amma, Annapoorni Matha and other scores of divine beings who have made this timeless holy city as their abode.
My next gratidue goes to my dear FB friend and brother who lives in Kashi Shri Sivasubramanian Nagarajan, a divine soul and his equally divine wife Chitra Nagarajan. Even before I embarked on this journey all alone, not knowing great Hindi but just passe, he had already taken so much pains to find a nice safe accomodation in a nearby ashram as they both were travelling down south for a short visit. Such kind hearted good souls.
My accomodation only lasted from 17th march till 25th march as Maha Shivaratri was approaching and donors of the ashram would soon flood in to take up all the rooms. That's when Nagarajan sir stepped in and invited me to his small lovely home to be a part of his family when they already had 2 of their kin visiting them at the same time. I was really feeling awkward. but they ensured that I was most welcome and felt at home. Such was their attitude towards me. I was supposed to go back to my room at the ashram on 28th but they insisted that I remain with them till the end of my trip. There in their home I learnt so many things not only from Chitra but from Nagarajan anna himself, he taught me so many things and talked about all his experiences with various swamis and gurus whom he had met while living in Kashi for more than 30 years. Also he taught me some secret yogis practices and how to chant mantras correctly initiated me on certain mantras on the auspicious Maha Shivratri day. Now my Anna has become my Guru.
I still have to go back and spend more time with him to learn so much more. Not only did they serve me delicious home cooked food but also gave me a nice bed to sleep in. I also found an athai there actually anna's athai and such a jovial lovely lady who never hesitates to speak out what's in her mind. I had the most wonderful time and experience in my life in those few days I spent with them.They also ensured that I reached the railway station safely. For me they are Lord Visvanath and Annapoorni/Kamakshi come down to earth in person. How am I going to repay their kindness I don't know. All I can do is open up my heart to them and love them.
by Vijayalakshmi Ravichandran