A devotee called me to say that she had planned to go to India at year's end with her friends, all of whom had come to AVM earlier. She had read through the blog, wanting to know what the places to visit, besides planning to go to Kallar Ashram, the 6 Padai Veedu of Lord Muruga and the 5 Butha Stalam of Lord Siva. I came across the following detailed post http://indianheartbeat.fws1.com/ReadingTheNadi.htm dated 14 May 2008, while scavenging through the net for my lost, or rather deleted, articles using "Wayback Machine". It might be of some help.
Reading The Nadi
Sivabalan remembers how as a six year old, he was dragged by his uncle to the Vaitheeswaran Temple in India to have his nadi read. When the readers refused to read for a young child of that age, his uncle insisted that they do so.
Sivabalan brought in Sentilkumar from India to read the nadi. On 27th November 2002, Sentilkumar searched for the nadi pertaining to events and personalities in my lifetime. There was one that I thought was mine. That nadi revealed the father as Avadaiyappa, mother as Valliammai, having seven siblings, having a government job, another sibling having a government job too, and owning a home. But the wife’s name was read as Manohari. All other details except my wife’s name were true. It puzzled me. So was there another individual somewhere with these similar descriptions living with a wife called Manohari? After looking through three buddles, and questioning me for some time, Sentilkumar could not locate a reading that described me. I was asked to come back in two weeks time for Sentilkumar could only look through a maximum of three numbers of buddles at any one particular time. The readers have their codes and ethics too.
On 11th December 2002, going through the same pace and trend of questioning, he found the relevant, appropriate, and corresponding nadi in the first bundle. I was astonished the nadi could reveal my fathers name as Avadaiyappa; mother had two names - Valli and Annam; I had seven siblings; had a government job related to a technical field; one of my sisters was also in the government; one of my brothers had bethrowed someone outside our religion. I agreed it was mine. I was told to come back for the full reading of the nadi another day.
On 14th December 2002, the actual reading of that particular nadi took place. I was both apprehensive and eager not knowing what was in store for me. I sat in awe as the nadi was read to me. Four out of sixteen chapters were read out. They were the Podhu Kaandam, Karma Kaandam, Parikaara Kaandam, and Gnana Kaandam. I was told Sage Agathiyar wrote it.
The Podhu Kaandam mentioned about me, my family, my career, and what to expect until my last days.
According to the Karma Kaandam I was a Brahmin priests in Kerala, India in my former birth. I had hurt many people then, and as a result I had to take this birth. Astrologer Dr Krishnan did mention that I could possibly have been a priest or a medicine man in the last birth.
The Parikaara Kaandam told me to worship Lord Vinayagar for forty-eight days. Chanting the Lord’s Moola Mantra will help to reduce the evil effects of my karma. I was asked to worship the sidhas and Lord Siva too.
Generally the first (Pothu kaandam), 13th (karma kaandam) and 14th (Parikaaran Kaandam) are read for all seekers. I requested to see the 9th Kaandam, Gnana Kaandam too. I was told the Gnana Kaandam was not available to everyone. Sivabalan told me to give it a try. There was a Gnana Kaandam for me. I had this kaandam read to me. It dictated my spiritual path. According to the Gnana Kaandam reading, I had to worship Lord Siva, Lord Vinayagar, Sage Agathiyar, and the eighteen sidhas. According to the ancient writings in these palm leaves, I have the blessings of the eighteen sidhas, the rishis, and gnanis too.
The worship of sidhas was something new. I knew who Sage Agathiyar was, having seen the Tamil movie on him - Agathiyar. But who were the rests of the sidhas? I asked of Sentilkumar if he could elaborate on the prayers for these siddhars. He immediately gave me a booklet on the worship of sidhas ‘SIDDHAR POTRI PAADALGAL’ and Sivabalan gave me a painting of Sage Agathiyar to aid in my prayers. When I invited Tavayogi to my home in 2005, Tavayogi read a few songs from a similar booklet and he mentioned that he had compiled the songs and published them. Only then did I realized that Tavayogi had already come into my life much earlier in the form of this booklet.
Performing The ‘Parikaarams’
One of the parikaaram was nadiku dhaanam which was paying homage to the authors of the nadi – the sidhas.
On 19th December 2002, I delivered the following to Sentilkumar: a vesti, tundu, saree, sweets, three varieties of flowers, and an amount of RM308 as was mentioned in the nadi. Sentilkumar performed archana to the 131 sidhas beginning with Sage Agathiyar with the flowers I had brought. Sentilkumar sang the hymns while I submitted flowers to Sage Agathiyar’s feet. Sentilkumar then blessed me with a verse from the 'Sivapuranam- Namashivaya Vazhga Naathanthan Vazhga Emai Poluthum Neengathan Thaal Vazhga'. He handed me a leaflet informing that his father and he were in the midst of building a temple for Sage Agathiyar in Kallaru near Ooti, South India in association with a saint named Taiveedu Thangarasan. Never did I imagine that I would be seeing the Swami in the leaflet– Tavayogi – in the years to come and that he would be my guru.
I had to do parikaaram at a Siva temple and a Murugan temple. It was stipulated in the nadi the Siva temple had to be one on a hilltop. On 1st Jan 2003 I went over to Jalan Gasing Siva temple. I did prayers and distributed food to the devotees. I presented three sets of offerings to the Brahmin priests at this temple.
A group from the Agathiyar Sanmarga Sangam in Dengkil, collecting donations, stopped me at the entrance to this temple as I stepped out. This society was affiliated to the one run by Tavatiru Rengaraaja Desigar of Ongkaara Kudil in Turaiyur, South India. I was given a VCD on the swami’s spiritual discourse at the grounds of the Siva temple.
On 29th December 2002, I did prayers and lighted the ghee oil at the Murugan temple in Batu Caves.
MY MAIDEN PILGRIMAGE TO INDIA
I was asked to perform a pilgrimage to India by Sage Agathiyar. I was to conduct prayers and obligations at Utamar temple, Palur Sani temple, and Tiru Anaikaa temple, all in Trichy according to Karma Parikaara Kaandam.
I had to pray at the five elemental temples of Lord Siva, namely Kalahasti temple in Andhra Pradesh, Egambareswarar temple in Kanchipuram, Nadaraja temple in Chidambaram, Tiru Anaikaa temple in Trichy, and Arunachaleswarer temple in Tiruvanamalai. I was instructed to go around the sacred hill of Tiruvanamalai during a full moon.
I was also instructed to go to Palani Murugan temple. This was stipulated in the Gnana Kaandam.
Prior to seeing the nadi I had neither idea nor intention to go to India.
Departure
I planned to go in December 2003 for the festival kartigai deepam but opted to go earlier, since the crowd would be tremendous during the Deepam festival. Then I planned to go in April, but my brother Kathi, advised against it, as it would be hot then. Gowrisan from my office was back from India and confirmed it was hot during this season. So I planned for September as was suggested by Kathi. I finally left for India on the 31st August 2003. I was there from 31st August to 13th September 2003.
I checked in at the Kuala Lumpur International Airport at 10.30 pm on 31st August 2003. The plane took off at 11.15 pm. Dhanu from Andhra whom I became acquainted with on board the plane sat beside me and started talking about his guru, Swami Ramachandra and his master’s master or known as Paramaguru and his mission in Chennai. So why did he start the conversation?
Arrival In Chennai
On arrival at Meenambakkam Airport in Chennai, Tamil Naadu, India, Devendran - my appointed driver - was waiting on me. He spotted me correctly. I spotted the name card he was carrying. He tells me later that Raji was to fetch and accompany me throughout my journey in India but he had taken ill suddenly. The switch was all for a purpose, for Devendran was destined to take me to Supramania Swami later.
Dhaksanamurthy, my travel agent in Malaysia, was waiting for my arrival at the Sindoori Hotel. He told me Vinayagar Chaturthi, the day I traveled to India, was an auspicious day to travel, as it was customary for Indians to plan travel on this Vinayagar Chaturthi day.
Day 1 - Paying To See Lord Vengadasalapathy
I started the day having breakfast with Dhaksanamurthy opposite the hotel. After exchanging the currency I had brought, I dropped him off at the local bus depot at Egmore. I left for Tirumalai Vengadesa temple in Tirupati, Andra Pradesh at 9.30 am.
I reached the Andra border at 12 noon. As Deventhiran was getting the papers sorted at the security post to enter the state of Andra, a sadhu walked towards the car and stood by my open window. He began chanting Lord Murugan’s name. I gave him some money, which he happily accepted and walked back to a tent pitched up some distance away along the road. Further up a small group of devotees stopped our car and asked for donations for the Vinayagar Chathurthi celebrations. I gave them some money too. At the entrance to the Tirupathi temple at the foothill the security guards collected entrance fees to drive up to the top of the hill temple.
At 2.30 pm I was at Varasidhi Vinayagar Temple at the foothills of Tirumalai. I reached the hilltop temple at 3.10 pm. I paid 1000 Rs for the special passes that Devendran purchased to have a darshan of Tirupathy Vengadesa. What happens when you pay is that you cut the existing queue and waiting time. Yet I had to wait in a line for 1 ½ hours before I had a view of Lord Vengadesa. I was told if you don’t pay it could take days to see the Lord. Devendran and I started queuing up at 3.30 pm and the Lord’s audience was over at 5 pm. It was a beautiful darshan although only for a few moments. Thayalan who came to India later tells me he had to wait three hours to get the Lord’s darshan.
Kalahasti
I left for Kalahasti, also in Andra Pradesh at 6 pm reaching the hotel at 7.45 pm. After checking in I walked to the Kalahasteeswarer temple nearby. Devendran accompanied me. I did archana at Lord Siva & Goddess Parvathi’s shrine. This was one of the Pancha Bootha stalam of Lord Siva that I was asked to visit.
That night I broke down in tears at the hotel room. I suddenly felt alone. Here was I heeding Sage Agathiyar’s words and made this trip. So where was HE? Jon Kabat-Zinn in his book ‘WHEREVER YOU GO THERE YOU ARE- MINDFULNESS MEDITATION IN EVERYDAY LIFE’ narates a fairy tale – The Water Of Life- from the Grimm Brothers collection and points out as follows: ‘The point here is simply that it is useful at times to admit to yourself that you don’t know your way and to be open to help from unexpected places. Doing this makes available to you inner and outer energies and allies that arise out of your own soulfulness and selflessness’.
I was also disturbed. Had I to pay at each and every temple for entrance fees, parking fees, fees for special queues, etc? Why did we need to pay to see the Gods? Only then did I realize how easy it was to pray at the temples in Malaysia. It was absolutely free of charge. Was this how it was going to be for the rests of my journey?
Day 2 - Lord Nadaraja Draws Me At Egambareswarar Temple
The next day, 2nd September 2003, I visited the Kalahasteeswarer temple again, this time alone. I was there from 6 am to 8 am. I came round the temple complex a couple of times looking for the exit only to find one exit which was not similar to the one I had used to come in. I thought I had come in through another entrance. I asked the security guard but he told me this entrance was the only way in and out of the temple complex. Eventually as I stepped out into the open through that exit I realized he was right and that I was disorientated. It was almost 8 am now and Deventhiran had begun to worry about me, as he didn’t find me in my hotel room. In the daylight I noticed a flight of steps up a hill behind the temple and a shrine at the peak of this hillock. The hunter Vedan Kanappa had paid homage to Lord Siva throughout the night unknowingly throwing down onto the Sivalingam, leaves that he plucked off a tree he had perched on for the night. The hotel aid told me this was the spot where a king was driven ashore at the height of the great flood and was the starting point of humanity.
At 8.15 am I left for Tirutani reaching Tirutani Murugan temple at 10.20 am. Darshan was only possible at 11.10 am since the temple was closed to public for a special prayer. Devendran accompanied me in. We queued up and waited. I did vilva archana at Lord Murugan’s sanctum. Saint Ramalingam had sang numerous hymns on Lord Murugan in Tirutani. This temple grounds was the place of birth of my guru, Supramania Swami.
At 11.50 am I started for Kanchipuram reaching the town at 1 pm. Devendran convinced me to take a tour of the cottage industries of Kanchipuram. I witnessed how silk sarees were weaved while waiting for the temples to be reopened to the public. Upon coming out from the shop we realized the car had a puncture. Deventiran got busy replacing the tyre. Temples in India are closed from 12 noon to 4 pm.
Kanchipuram
Dhaksanamurthy and the local tour agent in India Mahendren came over to my hotel at 4.15 pm.
At 5.30 pm I was at the Kanchi Kamatchi temple with Dhaksanamurthy and Mahendren. There was a slight drizzle as we came round the temple grounds. I had a beautiful view of her. The Goddess was extremely beautiful.
Later Devendran and Mahendren dropped me at the Egambareswarar temple. This was another of the Pancha Stalam that I had to see. The main sanctum was packed with people doing special prayers and was extremely noisy. As I came round the temple there was a huge chamber on the left. As I stopped to have a look, there was a majestic statue of Lord Nadarajah in that chamber. A young priests who stood at its entrance ushered me into the chamber. As I stepped inside, it was an entirely different atmosphere and I could feel a strong vibration in here. The young priests lighted the camphor and started prayers. I broke down in tears. I cried aloud. I had the Lord all to myself.
I was invited by an elderly couple conducting prayers to Goddess Kali to sit and watch the Abhisegam. I saw Abhisegam for Lord Egambareswarar too. I saw the famed 3000-year-old mango tree now completely hollow but with green leaves sprouting - on the grounds of the temple. I was at this temple from 6 pm to 7 pm.
It was already night as we left for Kumara Kottam Murugan temple also in Kanchipuram. There is a marble statue of Saint Ramalingam here.
Day 3 –Vadalur And Sathya Gnana Sabha
At 5.30 am, on Wednesday, 3rd September, we left for Melmaruvathur Athi Parasakthi temple. Dhaksanamurthy, had helped build this temple when he was in a college in India. He insisted that I visit this temple. We reached the temple at 7.30 am. Devendran and Mahendren dropped me at the temple. I was only given a minute or so at the Goddess sanctum by the attendants.
Then at 7.50 am we left for Vadalur reaching Satya Gnana Sabai at 10.30 am. Devendran and Mahendren waited on me. Saint Ramalingam had envisioned and built this structure. I was told that prayers were only conducted three times a day and lasted half an hour each time. I had to wait for the next prayer between 11.45 am and noon. The priests came in at 11.45 am and opened the door to expose a black curtain at the doorway. The flame from the camphor was shown to this curtain. I later came to know that all seven curtains in this temple were drawned aside to reveal the light (Jhoti) only on Thaipusam and Adi Amavasai each year. I told a lady devotee I intended to make a donation and she brought me to the administrative office.
I visited Sidhivalagam Tirumaligai in Mettukuppam a few kilometers away. Saint Ramalingam walked into a room in this building and had himself locked in from the outside by his disciples. When the government authorities questioned the disciples of the whereabout’s of the saint and insisted that they be allowed to enter the room, they found that the saint had disappear into thin air. I had very much wanted to be here. Marshall Govindan in his book BABAJI AND THE TRADITION OF THE 18 SIDHARS (Govindan, Marshall, Babaji and the eighteen siddha Kriya Yoga tradition , 1991,KRIYA YOGA PUBLICATIONS (REG), 196 Mountain Road, P.O.Box 90, Eastman, Quebec, Canada, JOE 1PO, http://www.babaji.ca ),says:
“In 1867, Saint Ramalingam founded a house of charity to feed the poor and extend hospitality to travelers and indigent old persons in Vadalur. His mission in Vadalur has fed the poor on an extensive scale everyday for the past 132 years. The mission’s kitchen fire has not gone out since it was lighted in 1870.”
“In 1870 Saint Ramalingam moved into a small hut in the hamlet of Mettukuppam, about three miles south of Vadalur. This hut is known as ‘the Sacred Mansion of the Miracle’ (Sithivalagam Tirumaligai)”.
“In 1871, he requested his disciples to conduct ‘a temple of wisdom’ designed by him. They did it within six months. It was inaugurated on January 25, 1872. It has a unique design, which in its form explains symbolically the process of self realization as experienced by Ramalinga. Seven curtains representing human passion and ignorance conceal an eternal light and various inner spaces within. Beyond all these curtains stand a glass box, five feet high, representing the purity of the soul, and within it there burns an eternal flame, which represents the soul in its true splendor, merged with supreme grace light (Arutperumjhoti)”.
“Towards the end of 1873, he placed outside the door of his room (in Sithivalagam Tirumaligai) the oil lamp that Ramalinga had been using inside. He asked his disciples to worship it and keep it burning forever. He asked them to imagine the supreme grace light manifested in it and to pray to Him for grace. He issued instructions to his disciples that except for the burning of camphor, no ritual be performed. Devotees should pray silently, filled with love of god. And enter into ecstasy”.
“On the auspicious day of January 30, 1874 at the age of 50, Ramalinga wrote and released to his devotees the following statement: "My beloved ones! I have to be out of your sight for a time. Do not worry. Keep the light of the lamp (gnana deepam) burning forever. Imagine that god is there and worship the light. You will be amply rewarded. I am in the body now and after a while I shall enter into all the bodies of His creation. Close the door and lock it from outside. The room, if ordered to be opened, will only be void." Ramalinga then shut himself up in his room in the Mettukuppam hut. Later that night as the devotees outside the room were chanting suddenly a flash of violet light emanated from Ramalingam’s room, signaling the merger of Ramalinga into all the bodies of HIS creation. For when the room was eventually opened it was found to be empty. Ramalinga had disappeared without a trace”.
It is said that Saint Ramalingam on his final day had entered a room in Sidhivalagam, Methukupam. He asked that his followers lock the door from the outside. On opening the door, at the request of the government officials, the room was found to be empty. It is also said that the saint had become light (Jhoti). There was no witness to this incident. The saint too had mentioned to his followers that they would find nothing, as he would dematerialize into thin air and be in each and every being from that moment on.
An article by Gangadharan appears in Shobana's website at http://www.ramalinga.org where Mother Mira gives us an insight as to what took place at the moment in Sidhivalagam that night. The Mother mentions she had seen Saint Ramalingam disappear in her meditation.
A VISION OF DEMATERIALIZATION OF RAMALINGA'S LIVING BODY
By Gangadharan, a disciple of Mother Mira Alfassa (aid of Sri Aurobindo of Pondichery).
Mother Mira said that Saint Ramalinga had achieved the Mukti.
“On the first day of the Tamil month of Thai (14-1-1978) I had a continuous vision in my usual meditation in the night: the vision of dematerialization of the physical body of Swami Ramalinga into and as the Truth-Light of Supreme Grace which contains or possesses in itself Supreme Compassion and Bliss of Grace.
Though I have had occasions to ascend into and remain for sometime in the Truth-World of Grace-Light wherefrom I could see the earth as part of the universe, the said Vision came to me when my consciousness was on the earth itself.
To begin with I sensed an ineffable Silence and Peace prevailing everywhere and I heard continuously Para Nada, the mysterious divine Sound. Then the Vision broke out.
A small village was seen in its simple and beautiful surroundings. There was the concrete Presence of the Supreme and Universal Divine with the beautiful Truth-Light of Grace and Fragrance, which enriched the place all the more and enraptured my heart with ever increasing aspiration for Grace. At the center of the village was seen a small house. Sweet Fragrance of Grace radiated everywhere from the house.
Vallalar (Swami Ramalinga) was seen entering the house. His face was calm and peaceful. His whole body was radiating the Light of Grace. Besides, his body was of silken or light golden shining color. He stepped into his room and closed the doors and bolted inside. At that time there was the Concrete Presence of the Supreme and Universal Divine in the room. The Presence could be sensed even physically and even by the born-blind. There was also Silence, Peace, Fragrance and the Light of Grace due to the Presence.
Vallalar sat on a white cloth spread on a low wooden plank and began to concentrate. In that poise he was seen as a Mountain of Truth-Knowledge with the Truth-Light of Grace and Peace and Fire of Tapas. He was verily a supreme form of the Divine. Flood of Light was radiating from his pure and luminous body into all the directions.
Supreme Grace, Supreme Compassion and the Light of Grace are expressive of the secret truth that they hold the key for transformation of physical body into the deathless physical body of Grace in its eternal youthfulness. One has to live in the depth of the ocean of blissful Grace-Light for getting transformed into the divine nature and as the divine body.
The intensity of the flood of Light that radiated from his whole body was very powerful and one shall have the strength and capacity to bear and receive it. My whole body vibrated with a joy and pleasantness because of the Vision of Light of his body.
After sometime of concentration, he rose up and saw the physical sky. Full moon was shedding its blissful cool rays over the earth. A little distance away from the moon was seen a very bright dazzling star of Light. Ramalinga poured his concentrated gaze at it for sometime. He became enraptured with blissful joy in the heart, which radiated on his face. A little time thereafter, he again sat on the white seat of the plank and entered into deep concentration.
Though Ramalinga was inside the closed and bolted room, he could see clearly the whole universe with its tiers of many worlds of mind, life and the physical including the physical earth and sky with its moon, stars and clouds.
When he was thus absorbed in deep concentration, an effulgent Truth-Light of Grace broke out from his heart and with its unique Heat began to burn his radiant physical body very slowly, as at a snail's speed, and that in an upward direction, from the heart towards the head. The burning of the body may be somewhat likened to that of an incense-stick which however burns downwards by its inner heat of fire, forming ash-covering but without the falling down of the ash-form. When the upper part of his radiant body was burnt completely from heart to head, there was left in its place a form of pure white Substance, which also radiated its Light of Consciousness. The burnt part, however, showed all its features intact and clearly and even the burnt hair of his head was seen distinctly as luminous white hair. Then the Heat of the pure Light of Grace descended to burn the lower part.
After the whole body was thus burnt, Ramalinga was seen as a bodily form of pure white substance from head to foot, radiating its Light. The white form kept intact all the different kinds of cells of his body and all the distinctive features and formations of his interior an exterior body. His bodily form did not shrink in size after the burning. I saw no visible flame nor sensed its heat during the burning of his living body, nor smoke, nor any bad smell as of burnt tissues, nor heard any cracking noise as of burnt bones. But instead, there was a sweet Fragrance since the time his body began to burn and it spread everywhere. I sensed in my heart an ineffable Calmness and Silence, which gave me in turn a state of Bliss.
Now a second stage of burning began. The unique Heat of Grace-Light began to burn slowly Ramalinga's luminous Form of White Substance from head to foot downwards. When his white Substance-Form full of its radiating Light, was thus burnt completely, the white Substance became very fine sub-atomic conscious particles which permeated and pervaded the entire universe and the farther pure worlds of consciousness beyond. The fine, white and conscious particles with its radiating Light also entered into and got distributed everywhere in the earth and even in matter and in the Inconscient. After the universal pervasive distribution of the particles, they could be seen no more and disappeared from my sight. But now there pervaded everywhere the sweet, soft and fine Fragrance of Camphor which gave my body a blissful sensation and enraptured my heart as well.
Then I had the rare vision of Ramalinga's universal luminous golden Form. As a matter of fact the immensity of his golden form contained in it the whole universe. This form too disappeared from my view and was replaced by another vision in which I saw the Golden Light of Truth-Knowledge and Grace entering into all the directions more speedily than the lightning. It permeated and pervaded the whole universe and the farther pure worlds of Consciousness. It entered into our earth and all its crores of the physical forms of beings and objects and in the apparently insensible matter and even in the very dark realm of the vast in conscience. All the forms that were permeated by the Golden Light of Truth changed into golden forms of beings and objects. The Golden Light entered into my whole adhara including the physical body. My body felt in all the cells vibrations of ease and pleasantness.
Then I heard some words of Grace. But they were indistinctly heard and could not be deciphered, as I was absorbed in a rapture of Bliss due to the sublime vision and experiences. Thus the Vision lasted an hour of time and came to an end.
The visible physical light is the concrete symbol of the Vast Truth-Light of Grace, which is the source of all lights. Camphor is verily a solid form or symbol of that Light. Ramalinga's soul is inseparable from the conscious white particles of Substance, which he has become, and pervading distributed everywhere. When the Supreme Truth-consciousness manifests in the physical world, it becomes the golden Light of Grace. The golden Light of Grace will purify and transform man and the physical body too will become deathless physical Truth-body, and the Sanmarga of Truth, Purity and Goodness shall prevail on the earth. As Anma realizes the pure Spirits, the body too shall realize its truth as the true body of the Spirit”.
Bhuvanagiri And The Birth Place Of Saint Ragavendra
I dropped in at Bhuvanagiri, birthplace of Swami Ragavendra at 2.40 pm as my brother-in-law Arumugam and sister Ambi had requested I try to visit this shrine. Unfortunately the building was closed for renovation. I managed to steal a peek at the image of the saint through the grilled doorway
Chidambaram And The Temple Of Thillai Nadarajah
At 3 pm I reached Chidambaram town. The temple was closed. We adjourned to the Thillai Kali temple, which was some distance away. After praying at Thillai Kali temple at 4 pm we went back to Chidambaram temple. On my return to Malaysia, I read in the net that one should visit this Kali temple first before entering the Chidambam temple. So it happens I did the right thing.
Devendran and Mahendran dropped me off at the Thillai Nadarajah temple. I was here from 4.40 pm to 6.10 pm. To my disappointment I was asked if I could part with my wristwatch by a young priests here. He then asked 20Rs from me which I gave. Sadly, at every shrine there was a priests waiting with a receipt book asking for donations towards the temple fund and money to perform prayers. With no other option I stomached the ways of these priests and conducted the prayers at the Adi Lingam sanctum. I paid 50Rs here. Every God had a price here. Part with your money and you shall be shown ‘Chidambaram Ragasiyam’. I told myself I do not need to know the secret by buying my way into the sanctum. I walked out off this temple disgusted at the ways of these young Brahmins. I could only imagine them in their forties and fifties-how corrupted would they be? I was told later that this temple sustains on the donations from the public and tourists. It does not receive government aid. Now I could understand why the priests were asking for donations.
Vaitheeswaram
I continued to Vaitheeswaram where I checked in at the hotel within walking distance from the famed Vaitheeswaran temple. At 7.30 pm I walked to the temple. Devendran had warned me of locals who would approach as tourist guides for a fee. True enough as I approached the temple, a man spotted me, asking, “Tourist?” and walked alongside me. Each time I stopped in my tracks, he stopped too. Eventually I told him off, either to go ahead or walk behind me and I don’t need his assistance. At 8.40 pm the huge doors to the temple were closed for the night. I returned back to the hotel with the thought what if a tourist was locked inside the temple? Do the temple authorities go around to ascertain that everyone has left the temple complex before they lock up?
Day 4 – God Begs For Alms? Tiruvengaadu And The Temple Of Buddhan
Thursday, 4th September 2003, I left for the Tiruvengaadu temple at 6.40 am. Shivabalan recommended that I include this temple in my tour of temples. He had directed me the kriyas to do at this temple. I followed his instructions. I dipped in the three tanks, Agni Theertam, Chandra Theertam, and Surya Theertam respectively. Devendran stepped into the tanks to ensure the steps were not slippery and the water was not deep before allowing me to go in. The first two tanks had some water but the last one had practically dried up. I lighted twenty-four oil lamps at the Buthan Temple. I prayed at the main temple of Lord Siva. There was a footprint under a tree in the compound of this temple. There was also a shrine of Lord Siva where I was told Lord Brahma had meditated.
Keelaaperampalam And The Temple Of Kethu
At 9.25 am I left for the Kethu temple at Keelaaperampalam. Later I stopped at Mallava Rishilingam temple, also known as the Pathinathar Temple. Devendran accompanied me. There was a shrine for Sage Pathinathar here.
Mayil Aduthurai
At 10.10 am I left for Mayil Aduthurai temple at Mayavaram.
Suryanar Temple
I arrived at the Suryanar temple in Mayil Aduthurai in the scorching heat of the afternoon, at exactly 12 noon. There was a central temple housing the Sun God and individual shrines around the main temple for the other planets. I had been advised against giving alms to the poor on this pilgrimage by my brother Kathi who had the bitter experience of having to ward off large groups of these beggars who turned up once they see a foreigner or visitor giving donations. Sivabalan had particularly mentioned to me to be wary of beggars in the guise of sadhu’s especially at this temple. So taking heed of their advice I left the grounds of the temple hurriedly when a woman came after me asking for alms followed by a disfigured man. This couple, as if they could read my mind, called out after me, “There is only two of us - please donate”. True enough no one was around in the immediate grounds of the temple. I dipped my hands into my pockets and handed whatever cash I had then to the lady who happily went away with her partner. Now who were these two people? Was it the Lord and Goddess?
Tiruvidaimarutur
I made it in the nick of time to pray at Tiruvidaimarutur Amman temple. The Siva temple though was already closed for the afternoon.
Kumbakonam-Swamimalai-Tiruvalanchuli
At 12.50 pm I left for Kumbakonam. We found our way to Thomas’s home. He is my neighbor in Malaysia. Devendran accompanied me. His mother greeted us as I introduced myself. She served lunch. Later her husband and son joined us. I was here from 1.30 pm to 5 pm after which we arrived at the Adi Kumbeshwarar temple. I witnessed prayers conducted for Lord Nadarajah and Goddess Sakthi. I was here from 5.10 pm to 5.50 pm. We stopped at Swamimalai Murugan temple from 6.10 pm to 6.40 pm. I rushed up the flight of stairs to get a darshan of Lord Murugan. The temple was packed with devotees. It was night as we continued to Tiruvalanchuli Siva and Vinayagar temples. It was dark except for dim lighting from one streetlight at the entrance to the temple. The Lord Vinayagar’s statue - Suvetha Vinayagar - I am told is unique since he is made of sea froth. As I stepped out from the car onto the tar road and walked towards the temple, my feet sank into the ground. It felt like I was tredding on sand. But there was no sea around. Had the sea resided back over the ages? At 7.20 pm I started for Tanjore and checked in at a hotel.
Rajarajacholan’s Famed Breehadeshwarar Temple In Tanjore
7 am, 5th September 2003, I visited the Breehadeshwarar temple in Tanjore. At this Siva temple was a huge nandhi and in the inner sanctum a gigantic lingam where the priests had to stand on raised platforms on either side to perform the abhisegam. Sadly the abhisegam was done behind the veil. Besides the main Siva sanctum there was a shrine for Sage Karuvurar located at the back of the temple. Sage Karuvurar was the architect for this temple and the guru of King Raja Raja Cholan. On the left wing there was a flight of steps leading up to a shrine of Lord Dhashina Murthi.
Trichy And My Parikaarams
I was off to Trichy at 9.15 am to perform the parikaaram. On the way, we stopped to watch how pottery was made by the villages on the insistence of Devendran. We continued at 11am for Utamar temple. We reached the temple at 12.50 pm. Devendran went in to enquire if there were any priests who could be of assistance in advising me on how to go about doing this parikaaram as the nadi did not stipulate in detail as to what I was to do and offer here. I had to make a donation to three Brahmin priests at this temple. Then as if God sent, Devendran appears with a priest willing to help out at this temple and also at the Tiru Anaikaa Siva temple too. The priest told me we need to get to Tiru Anaikaa temple fast before they close for lunch break. I made an appointment to come back to Utamar temple at night for the parikaaram.
Day 5 – Guided Tour At Thiru Anaikaa From Hanuman?
The priest took me to the Tiru Anaikaa temple. He advised me on what to purchase. He used his contacts at the temple to open doors that were closed. Lord Vinayagar’s chambers was closed after 12 noon, as was usual in most parts of India. He had it opened for me. He caught hold of an elderly priest to perform the prayers. “You are the want to do the prayer,” he said to the Brahmin man who was squatted at a corner. I had the priviledge to enter the main sanctum and be shown the lingam which was partially submerged in water. After the prayers, I fell at the feet of the elderly priest. As I picked myself up, I realised all those who followed me had also fell at the priest’s feet following my gesture. The priests from Utamar temple insisted this elderly priest should perform prayers at the Dhashana Murthi sanctum too. This priest then led us there. After the priests left, I broke down at Lord’s sanctum. I cried aloud here, to the amazement of my new friends, I suppose for the caretaker of the temple tried to console me. The priest from Utamar temple said, “Let him be, let him cry”. After a while I picked myself up and we adjourned to feed the poor, a cow and an elephant on the advise of this priest. I was literally pushed or shoved from one shrine to another, by these group performing each prayer to the utmost satisfaction. The priest whom we picked up at Utamar temple insisted that I dropped him off at a location that he chosed. He did not want me to send him back to the Utamar temple saying he had errands to run. After dropping him off and giving him a token of appreciation for his assistance we drove off. I handed him the first of three offerings I had to give away at Utamar temple. I did not see him again at Utamar temple that evening when I was there performing the parikaaram!
I looked back and realized that we had dropped him off at a Hanuman temple. Why did he get down at the Hanuman temple? Who did come in the guise of the Brahmin priest and showed me around? Was it Lord Hanuman who accompanied me at Tiru Anaikaval and with that much speed and velocity practically shoving me from one shrine to another? Who else but the son of Vayu could perform such a feat?
At 2.55 pm we droved to Turaiyur to meet Rendaraaja Desigar hoping to be back in time for the prayers at Utamar temple.
Samayapuram – Turaiyur
The food at Mani Aiyar was excellent. We stopped at Samayapuram Mariamman temple at 3.15 pm. Devendran accompanied me. As the sanctum was under renovation the idol of the Goddess was replaced with a painting.
Meeting Rengaraaja Desigar Of Ongkaara Kudil
We left for Turaiyur at 3.40 pm hoping to get a darshan and blessings of Swami Rengaraaja Desigar, founder and patron of the Agathiyar Sanmarga Sangam, at Ongkara Kudil, Turaiyur. I specifically wanted to come here. We reached his ashram at 5 pm. I was happily welcomed by Nadaraja. He was the one managing this establishment. On hearing that I was from Malaysia he was overjoyed. He had very high respects for Malaysians. He said, “All these is possible because of you Malaysians”, pointing to all the structures and facilities put up with donations from Malaysians. I enquired if I could see the Swami. I was told he would be coming in a short while for the evening prayers at 6.30 pm and that I could see him then. While I waited I was served tea. After a while Nadarajah, tells me Swami was coming down to meet a couple of businessmen. I was given the opportunity to meet the Swami after them. But before that he took me around to view all the facilities that they had at the ashram which helps feed the poor. As he ended the tour of the office, kitchen, and stores and other related buildings, he gasped aloud to find that the two visitors had left. He hurried me along to a building, praying that Swami should still be around to see me. There was Swami seated alone on the floor in one corner of that small room. There was an aid standing at the doorway to another room. I entered the room and prostrated in front of him. Devendran followed too. Nadarajah introduced me to Swami. Swami talked cheerfully about Kuala Lumpur and enquired from Devendran about my arrangement to tour India. I never expected to have an audience with Swami one to one. I asked that he bless me. He did not reply. Fearing he might not have heard me I asked him thrice. When Swami Rengaraaja Desigar did not bless me as did the other gurus I felt sad and was confused. This incident had been troubling me. I began to question myself if I was not good enough to receive his blessings. I had high regards for the swami as his nadi, which was published my his followers for the public, carried praises for the swami from the sidhas. He was said to be the avatar of Saint Ramalingam. I had mentioned to Ramesh that I had yet to receive an answer as to why I did not receive the swami’s blessing. Later Murali who listens to the radio on his way to the office everyday mentions about Saint Avaiyar’s Kural that came on the air. It seems Saint Avaiyar had cautioned those who were doing meditation to refrain from cursing others; and two: to my surprise, to refrain from blessing others. It seems the strenght of spiritual practise (tava valimai) would reduce by doing both. Finally it dawned on me as to why Swami Rengaraja Desigar refrained from blesssing me that day at Turaiyur. He was already nearing the end of his tavam. He was in his 27th year, with another three years to go.
Finally he replied that coming to Ongkara Kudil in itself was a blessing. I did not know how to receive his answer then. Some time later I realized the meaning of Swami’s answer when I read a book by Andrew Harvey where he (Andrew Harvey) asks Mother Meera (His Guru) “Can I receive your light?” and she replies “You are receiving it. One day you will see it.”
Nadarajah invited me to stay overnight but I had to turn down his requests because of prior arrangements to do parikaaram back at the Utamar temple.
Upon returning back to Malaysia I narrated my visit to Ongkara Kudil and having the audience with Swami to the devotees at Agathiyar Sanmarga Sangam in Dengkil and they were surprised that I was allowed to see Swami that easily and in private too. I was told the organization had laid certain rules to restrict the inflow of devotees coming to see Swami, which was taking much of Swami’s time and hindering his meditation. Also those devotees were required to bring along fruits and flowers that were customary when visiting Swamis and cash of Rs1, 000. It did not occur to me to bring these offerings nor did Nadarajah enlighten me on the procedures. I suppose I was destined to meet the Swami.
‘Brahmaharti’ And ‘Sangkalpa’
I started back to Utamar temple at 5.45 pm to perform the next parikaaram – prayers to Brahma, Vishnu and Siva and donations to Brahmin priests. Devendran accompanied me. Sivabalan told me since I had done harm to Brahmins in my last birth I should ask to do Brahmaharti at Lord Vishnu’s shrine. I asked to do Brahmaharti at Lord Vishnu’s chamber as advised by Sivabalan. The priests chanted some mantra and splashed some water on my face.
Thinking I needed to do Brahmaharti at Siva’s chamber too, I mentioned to the other priests, at this chamber only to be told that he had done the Sangkalpa pooja that removes all my previous, present and the future karmas. I understood that I am a clean slate now. I have to ensure extreme precautions in whatever I do, say and think and to be totally aware so as not to create fresh and new karmas.
Day 6 – Appeasing Saturn
8 am, 6th September 2003, and I am off to Paalur Navagraha temple to perform parikaaram at Sani Bhagavan’s sanctum. Devendran accompanied me. The uniqueness of this Navagraha temple is that all the planets are with their consorts here. On enquiring what I should do, the priests asks that I donate sesame oil and silk cloth for the nine planets. At 8.20 am, I am back at Trichy to purchase the items for the prayers as suggested by the priest. We rush back to the temple. Abhisegam was done at 10 am. The elderly priest mentions that his nephew was at the Palani Andavar temple and he asked me to look him up on arrival in Palani.
Then I was off to Sri Rangam Temple. It was just as crowded as Tirupati. Here Lord Vishnu as Ranganathar is in a reclining pose. I was fortunate to be shown Sri Ranganathar at Vishnu Sannadhi in Utamar Temple.
I could not enter the main chamber to see Lord Ranganathar. Instead I spent some time at the Ambal shrine where prayers were going on.
As I was about to get into the car and drive away from Sri Rangam a holy man with a long white beard, long hair that was tied up neatly, and dressed in a white vesti, appeared from out of nowhere. He was fair, merry, and cheerful. He started blessing me, “You shall be fine”. He spoke fine English and Tamil. I bent to touch his feet, asked if he had eaten and gave him a token before I bid farewell to him. So who was this person? It only occurred to me as I am putting down these thoughts that could that be Sage Agathiyar himself?
2.10 pm, I start back to the hotel that was in the outskirts of town. Feeling rather bored at the hotel, I woke up Devendran who was having an afternoon nap and ask that he drive me into town.
4 pm to 5 pm, I shopped the streets of Trichy for books.
Devendran accompanied me as we started climbing the flight of stairs up to the Rock Fort where the Uchipillaiyaar temple and Tayumana Swami temple is located. The electricity supply was interrupted in certain portions of this Rock Fort temple while I was here. It was an unusual experience; praying and moving around in the dark. It was a beautiful view from up here. I left for the hotel at 7.30 pm.
Day 7 – Palani And ‘Twilight Zone’
5.30 am, 7th September 2003 I left for Palani a day earlier then scheduled. I reached the foot of the hillock at 8.50 am. After a brief drive around the hill Devendran dropped me off at the entrance to the Tiru Avinankudi temple. Tavayogi later told me when he accompanied me to this temple that Tiru Avinankudi was THE temple those days where Sage Bhogar had meditated and lived. Sage Bhogar only moved to the hill temple later. He also mentioned that Sage Konganar had prayed and meditated on Lord Murugan in the present day Tirumalai Vengadasalapathy temple in Tirupathy.
After prayers at Tiru Avinankudi temple, I started for the hill temple only to realise later that I was moving away from it. Realizing this I asked for directions to the hill temple. I bought prayer items for the abhisegam and started up the hill. After having taken only a few steps I just could not move my legs any more. They were extremely heavy as if rooted to the ground. I had to force myself to lift my legs. The heart was pumping hard. I was gasping for air. I pushed myself determined to scale the hill. I had to break the climb though, stopping every few minutes. I eventually reached the top of the hill. On reaching the top, I was dizzy and had to sit. I dropped my belongings and leaned against the wall of one of the stalls that were lined up. As I sat there I was sweating profusely on the verge of fainting. The throat was extremely parched and dry. As I opened my eyes all was bright and white. I could hear the crowd and see silhouettes of people moving along. I had no problem climbing the 272 steps at Batu Caves. Neither did I have problem climbing the numerous steps in the Gua Tempurung Caves back home prior to this trip. So why could not I climb Palani Hill, which was only a small hillock?
Having regained my composure after some time I stood up. I continued my way to Palani Andavar’s chambers. I stood in row to have the darshan of Palani Andavar and did archana here.
Leaving the Lord’s chambers I followed the crowd ahead of me. I then came upon another room where there were four Brahmin priests. I enquired if it was Sage Bhogar’s samadhi and they nodded. I entered and stood in prayer while one of the priests showed the flame. One of the four priests, a young man, reached for a tumbler on top of a closet in the room and handed it to me saying it was abhisegam milk. I drank the milk. I took the opportunity to sit for a while here as there were no devotees around. Upon opening my eyes I noticed the priest was still there in front of me, this time holding some flowers and vibhuti in his hand. He gave them to me. I took leave thanking him silently. I was alone with these four priests at Sage Bhogar’s samadhi for some time without any disturbances from the public. Now where did all the people in front of me and those behind me go? Sage Agathiyar reveals to me in the Aasi Kaandam nadi reading on Pornami day, 19 August 2005 that it was Lord Murugan who gave me the milk at the Sage’s request. What did I do to deserve such grace from the Lord?
I came out of Sage Bhogar’s chamber in a daze, not comprehending what had just happened back there. I walked around the temple grounds still in a daze but with a heart that was full, brimming with joy. I finally left the premises and found my way to the car at the foothill at 11 am. I was back at the hotel in Trichy at 2.40 pm.
Day 8 – Revisiting My Roots
8th September 2003, I had a day without any activity as we had covered all there was to be seen earlier then planned. So Devendran suggested I visit my late father’s village Kilsevalpatti in Putukkottai - Sivagangai district. I started for my father’s village at 7.20 am.
Viralimalai
We stopped at Viralimalai Murugan temple. Here I saw a spectacular sight - flocks of peacock roaming freely in the wild.
Kundrakudi – Pillaiyaar Patti
8.50 am, I was at Kundrakudi Shanmuganathar temple located on a small hillock.
11.40am, I was at Pillaiyaar Patti Karpaga Vinayagar temple. Here was one huge statue of Lord Vinayagar carved on the face of a huge boulder that had become a famous temple now.
12.30 pm, I stopped over at Kaala Bhairavar temple. A very tranquil place.
I left this temple at 1.20 pm for my late father's village. As we drove down a lane in between rows of houses there was a large gathering in front of a house. We stopped three doors away from the crowd and stepped into a house. An elderly man was seated at a corner. I introduced myself and enquired if he knew my late father. He tells me he was related too and informed me my cousin, Narayanan (uncle Vellaiyan Chettiar’s son and Singaram’s brother) had passed away last night. The crowd three doors away had gathered for the funeral. As I was on a pilgrimage I could not meet my relatives. I gathered whatever I could from this relative and snapped a few shots of the house my father was born and lived in and the street that he had walked. I could not enter my father’s childhood home for lunch was been served for the relatives of the deceased. So for some reason I was not allowed to mend or meet up with my relatives in India.
Vayalur
I returned to Trichy at 4.30 pm and continued to visit Kumara Vayalur Murugan temple. I was here at 5.30 pm. A huge statue of Kripananda Vaariyaar greeted me upon arrival. I left for the hotel at 6pm.
Day 9 – The Pinnacle Of My Journey
6 am, 9th September, I left for Thiru Anaikaval temple again thinking I could take a dip in the tank. But there was hardly any water in the tanks.
7.15 am, I started for Tiruvanamalai stopping over at Viradeswarar Temple in Tirukovilur at 10.40 am. I continued my journey to Tiruvanamalai at 11 am.
I reached Tiruvanamalai temple at 1.15 pm. Devendran accompanied me. I was at the temple grounds till 1.50 pm. I had a beautiful darshan, and pretty close one too of Lord Annamalaiyaar and Goddess Unna Mulaiyal. I performed prayers here, at the Siva Parvathi Urchavamurthy and at Lord Murugan’s shrine. I saw the Patala Lingam where Ramana Maharishi had meditated. I left for the hotel at 2.30 pm.
This was the day of going around Mount Tiruvanamalai. According to the nadi I was to go round this hill on a full moon night. Any full moon night will do according to Sentilkumar.
So here I was on the 9th September 2003 in Tiruvanamalai. Pornami started at 10.47 pm and lasted till 10.48 pm the next day (10th September 2003). At 5.30 pm I walked to the temple from the hotel. I joined the long queue to get another darshan of the Lord before embarking on the Girivalam. It was a long queue indeed for I only saw the Lord at 9 pm. At 9.40 pm I started on the Girivalam path finishing back at the temple grounds at 6.30 am on 10th September. I stopped over at the following places of worship:
Tuesday, 9th September
9.45 pm Agni Lingam in the temple grounds
10.40 pm Seshadari ashram, Amman temple, Dhashina Murthi temple
10.45 pm Kali temple
11.30 pm Ramana ashram
11.40 pm turned back without visiting Yogi Ramsuratkumar’s (Visiri Swami) ashram as I thought the path was taking me away from the Girivalam route
11.55 pm Murugan temple, Sakthi temple, Adi Shankaracharyar Madam, Tank
Wednesday, 10th September
12.10 am Cemetery, Yama Lingam
12.20 am Mrityam Or Jaya Lingam, Ganesar temple
12.35 am Tank, Dhurvasar temple, Nandi temple
12.50 am Tank, Jhoti Vinayagar temple
1.20 am Vallalar temple, Annamalaiyaar temple, Unna Mulaiyal temple
1.30 am Anjaneyar temple
1.40 am Palani Andavar temple, Raja Rajeswari temple, Nandi temple
1.50 am Adi Mudi Sidhar Samadhi, Kautamar Rishi temple, Surya Lingam temple, Ramar temple, Varuna Lingam temple, Adi Arunachaleswarer temple
2.45 am Manickavasagar temple, Ganesar temple, Sakthi temple, Sudhananda ashram
3.10 am Vayu Lingam temple
3.20 am Tank, Ramachandra Swami ashram
4.20 am Kubera Lingam temple
4.40 am Eduku Pillaiyaar temple, Panja Muka Darshan temple, Brahma Rishi temple, Esaki temple
5.00 am Arthanathiswarar temple
5.10 am Seenivasa Perumal temple, Cemetery, Ammani Ammal Peedham, Esanya Lingam temple
5.30 am Easanya samadhi, Annamalaiyaar temple
5.55 am Draupadi Amman temple
6 am Durga, Anjaneyar, and Perumal temples
Finally Erathai Vinayagar temple at 6.30 am ending the Girivalam at the eastern gopuram.
I was hoping to come face to face with my guru at this holy event. But I was not destined to meet him until a later date. I was told in the nadi that I would meet up with my guru in an unexpected way and in an unexpected place soon. He would guide me with further instructions for spiritual advancement. When I did not meet the said guru, I consoled myself it may be another moment, and another place.
Day 11 – Returning Home - A Satisfied Pilgrim
Thursday morning, 11th September, I walked to Annamalaiyaar temple at 6.30 am to have HIS ‘darshan’ again. Today there was no crowd any longer. I took my time to pray and look around. I saw abhisegam being performed to Annamalaiyaar’s ‘feet’. I splashed myself with water from the tank (Indra Theertam). As I came around the temple grounds, a woman was standing alone against the wall opposite Lord Egambareswarar’s sanctum. She indicated by hand gestures that she was hungry. I gave her money. I then fell at her feet. Who was she and why did I fall at her feet? I do not know?
I returned to the hotel after breakfast. Devendran turned up at 10 am.
I went over to Ramana Maharishi’s ashram to purchase some audio cassettes; then over to Yogi Ramsuratkumar’s ashram at 10.40 am and sat at his samadhi. No one was around then except for an employee from the ashram who was stationed to distribute prasadham to devotees at the entrance. It was beautiful here. The calmness away from the hectic atmospheres in most of the major temples that I had visited earlier.
I went over to Kubera Lingam at 11.30 pm. Devendran accompanied me. I followed Supramania Swami’s instructions and left for Chennai at 11.40 am. I finally met up with my guru, Supramania Swami in a village 8 kilometers from Tiruvanamalai.
On the way I chanced to see Swami Ragavendra’s Brindavan at Vemandhi in Pelakuppam, Tindivanam.
Then I diverted to Tiruporur Kandasamy temple. I was there from 4 pm to 4.30 pm. I reached Chennai at 5.20 pm.
I had planned to see a few more temples in Chennai but it was not important any more. After Tiruvanamalai and the darshan of Supramania Swami nothing was important anymore. That night I ventured out of my hotel. Because I had much time on my hands, I dropped in at the Vinayagar temple next to my hotel.
Day 12 – Departure Day
I went again to the Vinayagara temple at 5.30 am, 12th September Then I went to the adjacent Vadapalani Murugan temple and a Siva temple. At 8 am I was back at the hotel; at 10 am I did some shopping in T Nagar returning to the hotel at 3 pm; at 8 pm I started for the airport. I took the flight back to Malaysia at 12.05 am on 13th September 2003. It was a memorable journey and satisfying trip indeed.