It was during my maiden trip to India in 2003 that I began keeping a record of everything notable that occurred during my journey. It was a rather detailed account of my journey. Hence began my documentation of my spiritual diary. I decided to share my experiences and post them on several platforms. Most of these websites are now defunct. I am glad I did, for I have a story to tell or leave behind for my grandchildren and others interested in knowing, and those keen to travel to India.
MY MAIDEN PILGRIMAGE TO INDIA
I was asked to perform a pilgrimage to India by Sage Agathiyar in the Nadi reading in 2002. Before seeing the Nadi, I had neither idea nor intention to go to India. I was to conduct prayers and obligations at Utamar temple, Palur Sani temple, and Tiru Anaikaa temple, all in Trichy, according to Karma Parikaara Kaandam. I had to pray at the five elemental temples of Lord Siva, namely Kalahasti temple in Andhra Pradesh, Egambareswarar temple in Kanchipuram, Nadaraja temple in Chidambaram, Tiru Anaikaa temple in Trichy, and Arunachaleswarar temple, or Annamalaiyaar temple in Tiru Annamalai. I was instructed to go around the sacred hill of Tiru Annamalai during a full moon. I was also instructed to go to Lord Palani Murugan temple. This was stipulated in the Gnana Kaandam.
Departure
I planned to go in December 2003 for the Kartigai Deepam but opted to go earlier, since the crowd would be tremendous during the Deepam festival. I finally left for India on the 31st of August 2003. I was in India from 31st August to 13th September 2003. I checked in at Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) at 10.30 pm on 31st August 2003. The plane took off at 11.15 pm. Mr. Dhanu, whom I became acquainted with on board the plane, sat beside me and kept me company by talking about his guru, Swami Ramachandra, and his master's master (Paramaguru) and his (Ramachandra) mission in Chennai.
Arrival In Chennai
On arrival at Meenambakkam Airport in Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India, Mr. Devendran (Deva) - my appointed driver - was waiting for me. He tells me later that Mr. Raji was to fetch and accompany me throughout my journey in India, but he had taken ill. Mr. Dhaksanamurthy (Murthy), my travel agent in Malaysia, was waiting for my arrival at the Sindoori Hotel in Chennai. He told me Vinayagar Chaturthi, the day I traveled to India, was an auspicious day to travel, as it was customary for Indians to plan travel on this Vinayagar Chaturthi day. This was not planned for.
Day 1 - Paying To See Lord Vengadasalapathy
I started the day by having breakfast with Murthy opposite the hotel. After exchanging the currency I had brought, and dropping him off at the local bus depot at Egmore, I left for Tirumalai Tirupathi Vengadesa Perumaal temple in Tirupati, Andhra Pradesh, at 9.30 am. I reached the Andhra Pradesh border at 12 noon. At the border, as Deva was getting the papers sorted at the security post to enter the state of Andhra, a sadhu walked towards the car and stood by my open window. He began chanting Lord Murugan's name. I gave him some rupees, which he happily accepted and walked back to a tent some distance away. Further, a small group of devotees stopped our car and asked for donations for Vinayagar Chathurthi celebrations. I gave them some rupees too. At the entrance to the foothill of the Tirupathi temple, security guards collected entrance fees before allowing us to drive up to the top of the hill temple.
At 2.30 pm, I was at the Varasidhi Vinayagar Temple Shrine at the foothills of Tirumalai. I reached the hilltop temple at 3.10 pm. I paid 1000 Rs for the special passes that Deva purchased to have a darshan of Tirupathi Vengadesa. What happens when you pay is that you cut the existing queue and waiting time. Yet I had to wait in a line for 1 ½ hrs before I had a view of Lord Vengadesa. I was told that if you don't pay, it could take days to see the Lord. Deva and I started queuing up at 3.30 pm, and the Lord's audience was over at 5 pm. It was a beautiful darshan, although only for a few moments.
Kalahasti
I left for Kalahasti, also in Andhra Pradesh, at 6 pm, reaching the hotel at 7.45 pm. After checking in at 8.15 pm, I walked up to the Kalahasti Eeswarar temple, which was a short distance from the hotel. Deva accompanied me. I did Archana at Lord Siva & Goddess Parvathi's shrine. This was one of the Pancha Bootha Stalam of Lord Siva that I was asked to visit in the Nadi.
Day 2 - Lord Nadaraja Draws Me At Egambareswarar Temple
The next day, 2nd September 2003, I visited the Kalahasti Eeswarar temple again, this time I went alone. I was there from 6 am to 8 am. I wept silently at the Lord's sanctum. After some time, I wanted to return to the hotel. In the daylight, I noticed a flight of steps up a hill behind the temple and a shrine temple at the peak of this hill. The hunter Vedan Kanappa, one of the Tamil Nayanmars, had paid homage to Lord Siva throughout the night, unknowingly throwing down onto the Sivalingam leaves that he plucked off a tree he had perched on for the night. The hotel aide told me this was the spot where a king was driven ashore at the height of the great flood and was the start of humanity.
Tirutani
At 8.15 am, I left for Tirutani, reaching the Tirutani Murugan temple at 10.20 am. Darshan was only possible at 11.10 am since the temple was closed to the public for a special prayer. Deva accompanied me into the temple grounds. We queued up and waited. I did Vilva Archana at Lord Murugan's sanctum. At 11.50 am, I started for the town of Kanchipuram. We reached the town at 1 pm and took a tour of the cottage industries of Kanchipuram, witnessing how silk sarees were woven while waiting for the temples to be reopened to the public. Upon coming out of the shop, we realized we had a puncture in the rear tire of the car. Deva got busy replacing the tire.
Kanchipuram
Murthy and the local tour agent in India, Mr. Mahendren, came over to my hotel at 4.15 pm to check on how I was faring. At 5.30 pm, I was at the Kanchi Kamatchi temple with Murthy and Mahendren. There was a slight drizzle as we came round the temple grounds. I had a beautiful view of Kamatchi Amman. The goddess was extremely beautiful.
Later, Deva and Mahendren dropped me at the Egambareswarar temple. This was another of the Pancha Stalam that I had to visit according to the Nadi. The main sanctum was packed with devotees conducting special prayers and, as a result, was extremely noisy. I had to look for another spot to do my prayers. As I came round the main sanctum, I noticed a huge chamber on the left. As I stopped to have a look, there was a majestic statue of Lord Nadarajah in that chamber. A young priest who stood at its entrance ushered me into the chamber. As I stepped inside, I sensed an entirely different atmosphere. A strong vibration could be felt in this chamber. The young priests went over to Lord Nadarajah and started chanting some verses in Sanskrit. I broke down in tears. I cried aloud. I had Lord Nadarajah all to myself then.
I was invited by an elderly couple conducting prayers to Goddess Kali to sit and watch the Abhisegam. I saw Abhisegam for Lord Egambareswarar too. I saw the famed 3000-year-old mango tree, now completely hollow but with green leaves sprouting, on the grounds of the temple. I was at this temple from 6 pm to 7 pm.
It was already dark as we left for the Kumara Kottam Murugan temple, also in Kanchipuram. There was a marble statue of Ramalinga Adigal here.
Day 3 Vadalur And Sathya Gnana Sabha
At 5.30 am, on Wednesday, 3rd September, I left for the Melmaruvathur Athi Parasakthi temple. Murthy had helped build this temple when he was studying in a college in India. He insisted that I visit this temple. I reached the temple at 7.30 am. Deva and Mahendren dropped me at the temple. I was shoved away by the attendants at this temple, who only gave me a minute or so at the Goddess sanctum.
Sathya Gnana Sabai.
Then, at 7.50 am, I left for Vadalur. I reached Satya Gnana Sabai, the temple that Ramalinga Adigal had envisioned and built, at 10.30 am. I had very much wanted to be here. Deva and Mahendren waited on me as I entered the temple. I was told that prayers were only conducted three times a day and lasted half an hour each time. I had to wait for the next prayer between 11.45 am and noon. A priest came into the complex at 11.45 am. He opened the door to the inner sanctum only to expose a black curtain at the doorway. The flame from the camphor was shown to this curtain. I later came to know that all seven curtains in this temple were drawn aside to reveal the light (Jhoti) only during the Thaipusam festival once a year.
I was then driven to Sittivalagam Tirumaligai in Mettukuppam, a few kilometers away. Ramalinga Adigal walked into a room in this building and had himself locked in from the outside by his disciples. When the government authorities questioned his disciples about the whereabouts of the saint and insisted that they were allowed to enter the room, they found the room empty. The saint had disappeared into thin air.
Bhuvanagiri And The Birth Place Of Raghavendra Swami
I dropped in at Bhuvanagiri, the birthplace of Ragavendra Swami, at 2.40 pm. Unfortunately, the building was closed for renovation. I managed to steal a peek at the image of the saint through the grilled doorway.
Chidambaram And The Temple Of Thillai Nadarajah
At 3 pm, I reached the town of Chidambaram. The temple was closed. We adjourned to the Thillai Kali temple, which was some distance away. After praying at the Thillai Kali temple at 4 pm, we went back to the Chidambaram temple. Deva and Mahendran dropped me off at the Thillai Nadarajah temple. I was here from 4.40 pm to 6.10pm. I conducted the Archana at the Adi Lingam sanctum.
Vaitheeswaram
I continued to Vaitheeswaram, where I checked in at a hotel within walking distance from the famed Vaitheeswaran temple. At 7.30 pm, I walked to the temple. At 8.40 pm, the huge doors to the temple were closed for the day. I returned to the hotel.
Day 4 - Tiruvengaadu And The Temple Of Buddhan
Thursday, 4th September 2003, I left for the Buthan Temple at Tiruven Kaadu at 6.40 am. Siva, back home, had recommended that I include this temple in my tour of temples. He had directed me to do the kriyas at this temple. I followed his instructions. I dipped in the three tanks, Agni Theertam, Chandra Theertam, and Surya Theertam, respectively. Deva stepped into the tanks first to ensure the steps were not slippery and the water was not too deep before allowing me to go in. The first two tanks had some water, but the last one had practically dried up. I lit twenty-four ghee lights (Agal Vilakku). I prayed at the main temple of Lord Siva. There was a footprint under a tree in the compound of this temple. There was also a shrine of Lord Siva, where I was told Lord Brahma had meditated.
Keelaaperampalam And The Temple Of Kethu
At 9.25 am, I left for the Kethu temple at Keelaaperambalam. Later, I stopped at Mallava Rishi temple, also known as the Pathinathar Temple. Deva accompanied me. There was a shrine for Sage Pathinathar here.
Mayil Aduthurai
At 10.10 am, I left for the Mayil Aduthurai temple at Mayavaram.
Suryanar Temple
I arrived at the Suryanar temple in Mayil Aduthurai in the scorching heat of the afternoon, at exactly 12 noon. There was a central temple housing the sun god and individual shrines around the main temple for the other eight planets. I had been advised against giving alms to the poor on this pilgrimage by my brother, who had the bitter experience of having to ward off large groups of these beggars who turn up once they see a foreigner or visitor giving donations. Siva had particularly mentioned to me to be wary of beggars in the guise of sadhus, especially at this temple. So, taking heed of their advice, I left the grounds of the temple speedily when a woman came after me asking for alms, followed by a disfigured man. This couple, as if they could read my mind, called out after me, "There are only two of us - please donate". True enough, nobody else was around on the immediate grounds of the temple. I dipped my hands into my pockets and handed whatever cash I had then to the lady, who happily went away with her partner.
Tiruvidaimarutur
I made it in the nick of time to pray at Tiruvidaimarutur Amman temple. The Siva temple, though, was already closed for the afternoon.
Kumbakonam-Swamimalai-Tiruvalanchuli
At 12.50 pm, I left for Kumbakonam. I dipped my hands in the famed Mahamaham tank in Kumbakonam town. We found our way to Mr. and Mrs. Barnabas's home. They are the parents of Mr. Thomas, my neighbor in Malaysia. Deva accompanied me. Mrs. Barnabas greeted us as I introduced myself. She served lunch. Later, Mr. Barnabas and another son joined us. I was here from 1.30 pm to 5 pm, after which I left for the Adi Kumba Eeshwarar temple. I witnessed prayers conducted for Lord Nadarajah and Goddess Sakthi. I was here from 5.10 pm to 5.50 pm.
We stopped at the Swamimalai Murugan temple from 6.10 pm to 6.40 pm. I rushed up the flight of stairs to get a darshan of Lord Murugan. The temple was packed with devotees. I could hardly see the inner sanctum.
It was night as we continued to Tiruvalanchuli Siva and Vinayagar temples. Lord Vinayagar's statue - Suvetha Vinayagar - I am told is made of sea froth. It was dark except for dim lighting from a single streetlight at the entrance to the temple. As I stepped out from the car onto the tar road and made my way in the poorly lit surroundings, my feet sank into the ground, which felt like sand to me, just as at the beach. But there was no sea! Had the sea resided back over the ages?
At 7.20 pm, I started for Tanjore and checked in at a hotel.
Rajarajacholan's Famed Breehadeshwarar Temple In Tanjore
7 am, 5th September 2003, I visited the Breehadeshwarar temple in Tanjore. At this Siva temple was a huge statue of a bull (Nandhi) and in the inner sanctum a gigantic lingam where the priests had to stand on raised platforms on either side to perform the abhisegam. Sadly, the abhisegam was done behind the veil. Besides the main Siva sanctum, there was a shrine for Sage Karuvurar located at the back of the temple. Sage Karuvurar was the architect of this temple and the guru of King Raja Cholan. There was a flight of steps leading up to a shrine of Lord Dhaksanamurthy.
Trichy And My Parikaaram
I was off to Trichy at 9.15 am to perform the parikaaram. On the way, I stopped to watch how pottery was made by the villagers at the insistence of Deva. I continued at 11am for the Utamar temple. I reached the temple at 12.50 pm. Deva went in to enquire if any priests could be of assistance in advising me on how to go about doing this Parikaaram, as the Nadi did not stipulate in detail as to what I was to do and offer here. It only mentioned that I had to make a donation to three Brahmin priests at this temple. Then, as if God sent, Deva comes back, accompanied by a priest willing to help out at this temple and also at the Tiru Anaikaa Siva temple in the town of Trichy. The priest told me we need to get to Tiru Anaikaa temple first and fast before the temple is closed for the afternoon. I made an appointment to come back to the Utamar temple in the evening for the Parikaaram.
Day 5 Guided Tour At Thiruvanaikaval
The priest took me to the Tiru Anaikaa temple. He advised me on what to purchase. He used his contacts at the temple to open doors that were closed. Lord Vinayagar's chamber was already closed. He called on a caretaker and had it opened for me. He caught hold of an elderly priest to perform the prayers. "You are the want to do the prayer," he said to the Brahmin priest who was squatting at a corner of the temple. He insisted that this elderly priest should perform prayers at the main sanctum. I was taken into the main sanctum and shown the lingam, which was partially submerged in water. After the prayers, I fell at the feet of the elderly priest. As I picked myself up, I realized all those who followed me had also fallen at the feet of the elderly priest following my gesture.
This priest then led us to Lord Dhaksanamurthy's sanctum and conducted prayers. After the priests left, I broke down at Lord Dhaksanamurthy's sanctum. I cried aloud here, to the amazement of my new friends. The caretaker of the temple tried to console me. The priest from the Utamar temple said, "Let him be. Let him cry".
After a while, I picked myself up, and I adjourned to feed the poor, a cow and an elephant on the advice of the priest who accompanied me from the Utamar temple. I was literally shoved from one shrine to another by these people performing each prayer to the utmost satisfaction. All these just happened with no prior indications that they would take place.
The priest whom we picked up at Utamar temple insisted that I drop him off at a location that he chose. He did not want me to send him back to the Utamar temple, saying he had errands to run. After dropping him off and giving him a token of appreciation for his assistance, we drove off. I looked back and realized that we had dropped him off at a Hanuman temple.
At 2.55 pm, I was driven to Thuraiyur to meet Rendaraja Desigar, hoping to be back in time for the prayers at the Uttamar temple.
Samayapuram and Turaiyur
On the way, I stopped at Samayapuram Maari Amman temple, reaching the temple at 3.15 pm. Deva accompanied me. The temple was under renovation. The idol of the goddess was replaced with a painting. I deposited a silver foil (Tagadu) in the impression of a pair of eyes that I purchased from the vendors at the temple grounds into the donation box.
Meeting Rengaraaja Desigar Of Ongkaara Kudil
I left for Turaiyur at 3.40 pm, hoping to get darshan and blessings of Rengaraaja Desigar Swamigal, founder and patron of the Agathiyar Sanmarga Sangam, at Ongkara Kudil, Turaiyur. I specifically wanted to come here. I reached his ashram at 5 pm. I was welcomed by Mr. Nadarajah. On hearing that I was from Malaysia, he was overjoyed. He had very high respect for Malaysians. He said, "All these are only possible because of you Malaysians", pointing to all the structures and facilities put up with donations from Malaysians. I inquired if I could see the Swami. I was told he would be coming in a short while for the evening prayers at 6.30 pm and that I could see him then. While I waited, I was served tea.
After a while, Nadarajah tells me that Swami was coming over to meet a couple of businessmen. I was allowed to meet the Swami after them. But before that, Nadarajah personally took me around to view all the facilities that they had at the ashram, which help feed the poor. As he ended the tour of the office, kitchen, and stores and other related buildings, he gasped aloud to find that the two visitors had left. He hurried me along to a building, praying that Swami should still be around to see me.
And there was Rengaraaja Desigar seated alone on the floor in one corner of a small room. There was an aide in attendance standing at the doorway to another room. I entered the room and prostrated in front of the Swami. Deva followed too. Nadarajah introduced me to Swami. Swami talked cheerfully about Kuala Lumpur and enquired from Deva about my arrangement to tour India. I never expected to have an audience with Swami one-on-one. I asked that he bless me. There was no response to my requests. Fearing he might not have heard me, I repeated my request. Finally, the Swami replied that coming to Ongkara Kudil in itself was a blessing. I did not know how to receive his answer then. Nadarajah invited me to stay overnight, but I had to turn it down because of prior arrangements to do parikaaram back at the Utamar temple.
Upon returning to Malaysia, I narrated my visit to Ongkara Kudil and having the audience with Swami to the devotees at Agathiyar Sanmarga Sangam in Dengkil, and they were surprised that I was allowed to see Swami that easily and in private. I was told the organization had laid certain rules to restrict the inflow of devotees coming to see Swami, which was taking much of Swami's time and hindering his meditation. Devotees were required to bring along fruits and flowers that were customary when visiting Swamis. It did not occur to me to bring these offerings, nor did Nadarajah enlighten me on the procedures. I suppose I was destined to meet the Swami.
Brahmaharti And Sangkalpa
I started back to the Utamar temple at 5.45 pm to perform the next parikaaram and prayers to Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu, and Lord Siva, and donations to Brahmin priests. Deva accompanied me. Siva told me that since I had done harm to Brahmins in my last birth, I should ask to do Brahmaharti too at this temple. The priests in Lord Vishnu's chamber chanted a mantra and splashed some water on my face.
Thinking I needed to do Brahmaharti at Siva's chamber too, I mentioned to the priests at this chamber only to be told that he had done the Sangkalpa pooja that removes all my previous, present, and future karmas.
Day 6: Appeasing Saturn
8 am, 6th September 2003, and I am off to Paalur Navagraha temple to perform parikaaram at Sani Bhagavan's sanctum. Deva accompanied me. The uniqueness of this Navagraha temple is that all the planets are with their consorts here. On enquiring what I should do, the priests ask that I donate sesame oil and silk cloth for the nine planets. At 8.20 am, I am back at Trichy to purchase the said items. I rush back to the temple for prayers. Abhisegam was done at 10 am.
Then I was off to Sri Rangam Temple. It was just as crowded as Lord Vengadesa temple in Tirupati. I could not enter the main chamber to see Lord Ranganathar. I spent some time at the Ambal sannadhi, where prayers were going on.
As I was about to get into the car and drive away from Sri Rangam, a holy man with a long white beard, long hair that was tied up neatly, and dressed in a white vesti, appeared from out of nowhere and stood next to the car. He was a fair, merry, and cheerful elderly man. He started blessing me, "You shall be fine". He spoke English and Tamil. I bent to touch his feet, asked if he had eaten, and gave him some rupees before I bid farewell to him.
2.10 pm, I started back to the hotel that was on the outskirts of Trichy. From 4 pm to 5 pm, I shopped the streets of Trichy for books.
Deva accompanied me as I started my climb up the flight of stairs leading to the Rock Fort, where the Uchipillaiyaar temple and Taiyumaana Swami temple are located. The electricity supply was interrupted in certain portions of this Rock Fort temple while I was there. It was an unusual experience, though, praying and moving around in the dark. It was a beautiful view from up here. I left for the hotel at 7.30 pm.
Day 7 Palani And Twilight Zone
5.30 am, 7th September 2003, I left for Palani a day earlier than scheduled. I reached Palani at 8.50 am. After a brief drive around the hill, Deva dropped me off at the entrance to the Tiru Avinankudi temple. I bought prayer items and started up the hill. After taking a few steps, I just could not move my legs any longer. They were extremely heavy. The heart was working hard. I was gasping for air. I had to break the climb, stopping every few minutes. I eventually reached the top of the hill. On reaching the top, I was dizzy and had to sit. I dropped my belongings and leaned against the wall of the stalls that were lined up. As I sat there, I was sweating profusely and on the verge of fainting. The throat was extremely parched and dry. As I opened my eyes, all was bright and white. I could hear the crowd and see the silhouettes of people moving along.
After some time, having regained my composure, I continued my way to Lord Palani Andavar's chambers. I stood in the row to have the darshan of Lord Palani Andavar and did prayers here.
Leaving the Lord's chambers, I followed the devotees ahead of me. That is when I came upon another room where, on looking within, there were four Brahmin priests. I enquired if it was Sage Bhogar's samadhi, and they nodded. I entered and stood in prayer while one of the priests lit the camphor and showed the flame. One of the four priests, a young man, reached for a tumbler on top of a closet in the room and handed it to me, saying it was abhisegam milk. I drank the milk. I took the opportunity to sit for a while in Sage Bhogar's chamber, as there were no devotees around. Upon opening my eyes, I noticed the priest was still there in front of me, this time holding some flowers and vibhuti in his hand. He gave them to me. I took leave, thanking him silently.
I came out of Sage Bhogar's chamber in a daze, not comprehending what had just happened back there. I walked around the temple grounds a couple of times, still in a daze but with a full heart, brimming with joy. I finally left the premises and found my way to the car at the foothill at 11 am. I was back at the hotel in Trichy at 2.40 pm.
Day 8: Revisiting My Roots
8th September 2003, I had a day without any activity as we had covered all there was to see earlier than planned. So Deva suggested I visit my late father's village, Kilsevalpatti, in Karaikudi - Sivagangai district. I started for my father's village at 7.20 am.
Viralimalai
I stopped at Viralimalai Murugan temple. Here I saw a spectacular sight. I saw flocks of peacocks roaming freely in the wild.
Kundrakudi and Pillaiyaar Patti
8.50 am, I am at the Kundrakudi Shanmuganathar temple, located on a small hillock.
11.40am, I am at Pillaiyaar Patti Karpaga Vinayagar temple. Here was one huge statue of Lord Vinayagar carved on the face of a huge boulder that had become a famous temple now.
12.30 pm, I stopped over at the Kaala Bhairavar temple. A very tranquil place.
I left this temple at 1.20 pm for my late father's village. As we drove down a lane between rows of houses, there was a large gathering in front of a house. We stopped three doors away from the crowd and stepped into a house. An elderly man was seated in a corner. I introduced myself and inquired if he knew my late father. He tells me he was related to and informed me that my cousin had passed away last night. The crowd three doors away had gathered for the funeral. As I was on a pilgrimage, I could not meet my relatives. I gathered whatever I could from this relative and snapped a few shots of the house where my father was born and lived. I could not enter my father's childhood home because lunch was being served for the relatives of the deceased. So for some reason, I was not allowed to meet up with my relatives in India.
Vayalur
I returned to Trichy at 4.30 pm and continued to the Kumara Vayalur Murugan temple. I was here from 5.30 pm to 6 pm. A huge statue of Kripananda Vaariyaar greeted me upon arrival.
Day 9: The Pinnacle Of My Journey is carried in the previous post.